Little Baldy Rock Climbing
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Little Baldy is a granite dome that rises to just over 8,000 feet in Sequoia National Park. Anyone who visits it's summit will enjoy a commanding view of the Great Western Divide to the east and a layer of haze to the west. The easiest way to get the view is the one and a half mile trail from Little Baldy saddle.
If you're looking for a more interesting way to the top you can enjoy some high quality granite slab and crack routes. Most climbs range from one to four pitches, the easiest is a 5.6 ramp and the more difficult routes are in the 5.11s.
Spring, Summer and Fall are the best times to climb, but some of the slab routes dry up quickly and can be climbed during sunny weeks in the winter. The routes generally dry off from right to left on the face, so the Regular Route stays wet well into spring and the slab routes on the far right can be climbed almost year round.
Don't forget your helmet, some folks can't resist throwing rocks off the top!
Little Baldy lies just off of the General's Highway about 6 miles north of Lodgepole if you come up the 198 through Three Rivers. Coming from the north on the 180 it's a couple miles south of Dorst Creek campground.
The best approach is from a large turnout just south of the Little Baldy trailhead where you can see the rock up the hill. Pick the route of least resistance up to the base.
For a view of the rock to help get oriented, walk up the hill across the road from the Little Baldy trailhead for a couple minutes.
For routes that reach the summit, descend along the west face back to the base.
Weather station 3.9 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Little Baldy
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Little Baldy
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Little Baldy:
Bit By Bit 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Little Baldy
Welcome to Little Baldy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a CA
: Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP
: Little Baldy
An excellent route ascending a natural line up the tallest and steepest part of the face. The climb requires a variety of techniques including liebacking, friction and several sizes of cracks.One of the few all trad routes on Little Baldy. The only bolts are the anchor at the top of the first pitch. It's a very good route that will only get better with time and little more traffic. It may be 5.9 if the crux corner gets a little more clean.Please climb this route!P1: Ascend the left leaning ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 9, 2015
I can fill in some blanks if someone is working on a guidebook.
From: Visalia, CA
Apr 9, 2015
Eric, I've got a rough draft on sekiclimbing.com, please take a look and let me know if there is anything I should change!
From: Central California
Mar 19, 2016
As for the 5.7 - 5.9 bolted slab climbs on the far right side (Bit by Bit to Sparkler), I find these climbs to be kinda hard. More ideal for those very comfortable at 5.8/9 slab. Kinda run-out on some of these climbs, plus older, original FA bolts - smc hangers, some 1/4"ers; pretty full value stuff. Take a 2nd rope to get off some of these and small/med gear will place in the the little cracks & flakes. May need to leave some rap gear too. Some new rap ring anchors and new lead protection bolts would make this place great.