||Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
|Original: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Bernard Gillett, Brad White, Jason Cushner, Dave Warowski, Thad Eggen, Chris Hill, 2002|
|Season: ||Year round|
|Page Views: ||500|
|Submitted By: ||Luke Clarke on Nov 12, 2009|
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Starting the crux standup move. The crack is too t...
This climb ascends a left-facing crack system to a right-facing dihedral on the skyline when viewed from the base. The cracks at the bottom will improve if more traffic cleans up some of the grunge.
The upper dihedral, however, is whistle clean. Getting established in it is the crux. Some fun mixed trad/bolted climbing follows to a two-bolt chain anchor. You can rap from there on a single rope to a ledge with easy down-climb options.
The route is on the southwest face near where the approach described in Gillett's St. Vrain guide brings you to the crag. It begins in a left-facing, slightly grungy crack system just to the right of a face under large roofs.
Small wires to cams of 3".
The initial cracks of Lithophyte. These are harder...
At the stance below the crux. There is a bit of a ...
Just above the crux move. Above this the angle eas...
By Ben Burnett
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Quite a bit harder than the 9+ routes on the crag. Steep, juggy, and grungy - but still fun - at the bottom. I'm glad we TRed it instead of warming up with it on lead. Be careful where you place gear in the first third of the climb.