Left of "Rabid Muslim". Start on the left edge of the shelf and climb past three good bolts through the overhanging, slightly loose base, left and then up. Follow the right-facing dihedral past bulges until it is possible to step into the widening crack on the right. Follow this to a hanging belay 160'. A spectacular finish to a great climb!
Two or three of everything .75-3, save a 1,2,3 Camalot for the final airy crack.
|By Andy Jacobsen|
Jun 2, 2011
Awesome route! Varied and interesting from start to finish. Bring runners to help with the drag. Overhanging jugs, fingerlocks, offwidth, face climbing, chimney, perfect hands, cupped hands, dihedral, splitter, its like some sort of desert initiation course. Gear beta: Depending on your comfort level with cupped hands (possibly fists if you have smaller hands) or walking cams you may want to save two or three BD #3 for the upper splitter. It is cupped hands for a ways. I was pumped up there and by that point you are dragging quite a bit of rope, I had two BD #3 and placed them both.