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List of first American routes of each grade
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Mar 12, 2012
On top of Dr. Rubos
What about the Durrance Route on Devils Tower as the first 5.7. It was put up in 1938. That seems old to me. Angela Mabe
From Flagstaff,AZ
Joined Feb 7, 2006
199 points
Mar 12, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Angela Mabe wrote:
What about the Durrance Route on Devils Tower as the first 5.7. It was put up in 1938. That seems old to me.


East Buttress of Whitney in 1937...

Bunches of Wiessner routes at that grade in the early thirties.

East Ridge of the Grand in 1929.

Ellingwood Chimney 1924.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,992 points
Administrator
Mar 12, 2012
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Albert Ellingwood did a number of potentially harder routes prior to the Durrance route.

As already mentioned, Lizard head, climbed in 1920, is ~5.8, as is The Bishop in the Cathedral Spires of CO's South Platte, done in 1924.
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
16,864 points
Mar 12, 2012
people say that Just DO IT @ Smith is "a temperature dependent .14B"

that would elevate Necessary Evil to first 14c.
Jcrew
Joined Apr 16, 2011
44 points
Mar 12, 2012
crack at undisclosed location - my little proj
rbardzik wrote:
Open Book @ Tahquitz was the first 5.9

I don't know. Herbies Horror at Carderock, I'm pretty sure, significantly predates The Open Book. Though a top rope for most, it is not unlikely it was led (soloed?) by Herb Conn sometime in the 40's.
Timmamok
From Durango, CO
Joined Sep 1, 2008
134 points
Mar 12, 2012
On the North America Wall in 1977.
Wow! So that means that Max and I did the FFA of Phoenix! Dang!

PS, Thanks.
Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
280 points
Administrator
Mar 12, 2012
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Jcrew wrote:
people say that Just DO IT @ Smith is "a temperature dependent .14B" that would elevate Necessary Evil to first 14c.


I disagree. Although I've never been on it, if we're going to generalize what "people" say, my conclusion is that the current median among people who have been on it is soft 14c. BTW, every route is temperature dependent.
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
16,864 points
Administrator
Mar 12, 2012
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Mark Hudon wrote:
Wow! So that means that Max and I did the FFA of Phoenix! Dang! PS, Thanks.


Not to mention likely the first consensus 5.13 in the world!
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
16,864 points
 
Mar 13, 2012
Sign near the Third Flatiron
Will S wrote:
Well, sort of. Ament's version can be found there....


Great reply all-around!
Chris D
From the couch
Joined Apr 14, 2009
2,185 points
Mar 13, 2012
On the North America Wall in 1977.
I feel so special!

;-)
Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
280 points
Apr 17, 2012
4th pitch Rewritten
Stettner Ledges, Longs Peak 5.8 in 1920's, Joe & Paul Stettner riding there motorcylces from Chicago to Colorado, buying a rope from hardware store in Este Park,

Joe and Paul Stettner move to to chicago in the 1920's, went to Wisconsin looking for climbing, the a good chance, some of the first 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 were done at Devils Lake, like Water Marks 5.8, that would be 5.9 in Cleer creek, or BC,
Alex A
Joined Oct 19, 2005
1,153 points
Mar 13, 2013
I thought first 5.10 was either supremacy crack in Eldo or Athlete's Feat in Boulder canyon... Hard to identify first versus one of the first. Peteoria
Joined Jun 6, 2010
62 points
Mar 13, 2013
fritz weissner's Vector is said to be the first 5.8, i think. at ragged mountain in CT. really neat historic area. BCA
From michigan
Joined Mar 26, 2010
8 points
Mar 13, 2013
Clint's list is pretty thorough. Just glancing at it a couple things jumped out at me immediately: John Gill doing V8 back in 1957 and then the Thimble (V4 or 5, 5.12a/b), unroped, back in 1961. The guy was so ahead of his time. Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points


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