By Angela Mabe
From Flagstaff,AZ
Mar 12, 2012
| What about the Durrance Route on Devils Tower as the first 5.7. It was put up in 1938. That seems old to me. | 
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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 12, 2012
| Angela Mabe wrote: What about the Durrance Route on Devils Tower as the first 5.7. It was put up in 1938. That seems old to me.
East Buttress of Whitney in 1937...
Bunches of Wiessner routes at that grade in the early thirties.
East Ridge of the Grand in 1929.
Ellingwood Chimney 1924. |
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Mar 12, 2012
| Albert Ellingwood did a number of potentially harder routes prior to the Durrance route.
As already mentioned, Lizard head, climbed in 1920, is ~5.8, as is The Bishop in the Cathedral Spires of CO's South Platte, done in 1924. |
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By Jcrew
Mar 12, 2012
| people say that Just DO IT @ Smith is "a temperature dependent .14B"
that would elevate Necessary Evil to first 14c. |
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By Timmamok
From Durango, CO
Mar 12, 2012
| rbardzik wrote: Open Book @ Tahquitz was the first 5.9
I don't know. Herbies Horror at Carderock, I'm pretty sure, significantly predates The Open Book. Though a top rope for most, it is not unlikely it was led (soloed?) by Herb Conn sometime in the 40's. |
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By Mark Hudon
Mar 12, 2012
| Wow! So that means that Max and I did the FFA of Phoenix! Dang!
PS, Thanks. |
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Mar 12, 2012
| Jcrew wrote: people say that Just DO IT @ Smith is "a temperature dependent .14B" that would elevate Necessary Evil to first 14c.
I disagree. Although I've never been on it, if we're going to generalize what "people" say, my conclusion is that the current median among people who have been on it is soft 14c. BTW, every route is temperature dependent. |
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Mar 12, 2012
| Mark Hudon wrote: Wow! So that means that Max and I did the FFA of Phoenix! Dang! PS, Thanks.
Not to mention likely the first consensus 5.13 in the world! |
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By Chris D
From the couch
Mar 13, 2012
| Will S wrote: Well, sort of. Ament's version can be found there....
Great reply all-around! |
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By Alex A
Apr 17, 2012
| Stettner Ledges, Longs Peak 5.8 in 1920's, Joe & Paul Stettner riding there motorcylces from Chicago to Colorado, buying a rope from hardware store in Este Park,
Joe and Paul Stettner move to to chicago in the 1920's, went to Wisconsin looking for climbing, the a good chance, some of the first 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 were done at Devils Lake, like Water Marks 5.8, that would be 5.9 in Cleer creek, or BC, |
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By Peteoria
Mar 13, 2013
| I thought first 5.10 was either supremacy crack in Eldo or Athlete's Feat in Boulder canyon... Hard to identify first versus one of the first. |
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By BCA
From michigan
Mar 13, 2013
| fritz weissner's Vector is said to be the first 5.8, i think. at ragged mountain in CT. really neat historic area. |
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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Mar 13, 2013
| Clint's list is pretty thorough. Just glancing at it a couple things jumped out at me immediately: John Gill doing V8 back in 1957 and then the Thimble (V4 or 5, 5.12a/b), unroped, back in 1961. The guy was so ahead of his time. |
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