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Redgarden - Roof Routes
Routes Sorted
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Blue Steel 
Clear the Deck 
Clever Lever 
Dangerous Acquaintances 
Downpressor Man 
Fire and Ice  
Gem, The 
Guardian Saint 
Hands In The Clouds 
Huck Off 
Kloeberdeath/ Candallegro 
Last Rite 
Le Toit 
Le Toit Direct 
Le Verne 
Mean Lean 
Rosy Toit 
Scary Canary 
Temporary Like Achilles 
Tubesock Tanline 
Wisdom, The 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: David Light
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Apr 8, 2002
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  • Description 

    This is a hybrid/link-up type route but it actually covers some pretty cool terrain and must be one of the most overhung routes in Eldo.

    Start on Kloeberdanz, cranking through the crux 11a roof until you're perched on the slab over the lip. Move up and left onto the hanging arete and clip a bolt.

    Power out the arete to the lip of roof and clip another bolt, then hand traverse left along the good rail at the lip of the roof band. Clip a final bolt and continue left (crux), eventually joining Guenese at the good lieback flakes over the roof.

    Use long draws on this route to prevent rope drag. It's easiest to clean this one on top-rope.


    Some small gear for the pillar at the start of Kloeberdanz and TCUs/stoppers for the corner on Guenese.

    Comments on Lipsync Add Comment
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    By Bart Paull
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 16, 2011
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

    Awesome route, well worth doing. You can get a #0.75 Camalot in the hueco-like feature just before Guenese to protect the final moves into the corner.