Lipstick on a Pig 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Dave Budge w/ Todd & Winslow Passey, 9/08 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Dave Budge on Sep 15, 2008 |
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Description An in-your-face boulder problem on the north side of The Watchtower Proper. Still gritty but should clean up after a few more ascents. Kinda reachy and powerful.
Location On the Watchtower Proper. Shares the same start as Bats in the Belfry but continues straight up the north side of The Watchtower. There are several approach pitch options from the ground. Alternately, one can downclimb around from the top (easy 4th class).
Protection Hand-sized cams protect the moves below the roof. Two bolts on the upper face. The first bolt can be clipped from the bomber handjam below the roof. Very hard to clip second bolt, I clipped it from above after the crux. A purple Metolius TCU can be placed in a little slot below the top. Bolt anchors on top. I will place chains to facilitate lowering (the chains I originally brought weren't long enough). With a 70m rope you can rap to the ground from the top.
Some stoppers and TCUs might be handy for the belay anchor at the start of the tower pitch.
| Comments on Lipstick on a Pig |
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By Ben Folsom
Sep 19, 2008
rating: 5.11+
| Nice route! Cool, bouldery climbing on the upper headwall. Climbed it in one pitch from the ground starting on Beef Jerky. Seemed like a good way to do it. As Dave said, it's a little gritty, but seems like it will clean up quick with a few people on it. |
By Daniel Winder
Jun 6, 2011
| There are chains on the anchor now. Be careful getting to that second bolt, my buddy broke his foot last year when he whipped into the roof below. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.11d
| Ben is going to accuse me of being the source of all grade creep but I think the 11+ rating is a tad optimistic. The boulder problem is short but HARD, much harder than the crux of Fishlips and probably Fuego. I can only think of one other 11 in the canyon that might compare and I think that one is a fair 12a.
Regardless of the rating, the route is really fun. Expect a few powerful big moves with bad feet and really funky body position to stay on. I'd probably wait for cool temps as a couple of moves rely heavily on friction for the feet. The start takes bomber gear but I'd recommend rapping in to get look at the holds (not many), get a feel for the bolted section and hang a long draw on both bolts (extra long on bolt 1 would be good). Or you can OS from the ground approaching from Beef Jerky a la Folsom (impressive!!). |
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