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Watchtower Proper
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Bats in the Belfry  T 
Faultline Variation T 
Lipstick on a Pig T 

Lipstick on a Pig 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dave Budge w/ Todd & Winslow Passey, 9/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 819
Submitted By: Dave Budge on Sep 15, 2008

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Description 

An in-your-face boulder problem on the north side of The Watchtower Proper. Still gritty but should clean up after a few more ascents. Kinda reachy and powerful.

Location 

On the Watchtower Proper. Shares the same start as Bats in the Belfry but continues straight up the north side of The Watchtower. There are several approach pitch options from the ground. Alternately, one can downclimb around from the top (easy 4th class).

Protection 

Hand-sized cams protect the moves below the roof. Two bolts on the upper face. The first bolt can be clipped from the bomber handjam below the roof. Very hard to clip second bolt, I clipped it from above after the crux. A purple Metolius TCU can be placed in a little slot below the top. Bolt anchors on top. With a 70m rope you can rap to the ground from the top.

Some stoppers and TCUs might be handy for the belay anchor at the start of the tower pitch.


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By Ben Folsom
Sep 19, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Nice route! Cool, bouldery climbing on the upper headwall. Climbed it in one pitch from the ground starting on Beef Jerky. Seemed like a good way to do it. As Dave said, it's a little gritty, but seems like it will clean up quick with a few people on it.
By Daniel Winder
Jun 6, 2011

There are chains on the anchor now. Be careful getting to that second bolt, my buddy broke his foot last year when he whipped into the roof below.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Ben is going to accuse me of being the source of all grade creep but I think the 11+ rating is a tad optimistic. The boulder problem is short but HARD, much harder than the crux of Fishlips and probably Fuego. I can only think of one other 11 in the canyon that might compare and I think that one is a fair 12a.

Update: after getting back on the route in good conditions (late November, 40 degrees and shade) I'm going to remain a grade creeper by saying that we're on the ++ side of 5.11. Crisp temps won't change the fact that there are no feet at the crux, the nothings I stepped on were just a bit stickier than this spring. I also feel like being shorter than 5'10" would bump the grade a bit.
That being said, the moves are excellent and the sequence for me is an odd mix of really thuggy throws and delicate footwork/body tension, typical Fergy insecure stuff. Probably in my top 3 in the canyon now at 5.11e or so :)
By Scott H.
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 23, 2013

A 60 meter rope will barely reach for rappel from the anchors to the bottom of watchtower main near broken serenity.