|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Dave Budge w/ Todd & Winslow Passey, 9/08|
|Submitted By:||Dave Budge on Sep 15, 2008|
|Comments on Lipstick on a Pig||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Folsom
Sep 19, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
|Nice route! Cool, bouldery climbing on the upper headwall. Climbed it in one pitch from the ground starting on Beef Jerky. Seemed like a good way to do it. As Dave said, it's a little gritty, but seems like it will clean up quick with a few people on it.|
By Daniel Winder
Jun 6, 2011
|There are chains on the anchor now. Be careful getting to that second bolt, my buddy broke his foot last year when he whipped into the roof below.|
From: Small Lake, UT
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ben is going to accuse me of being the source of all grade creep but I think the 11+ rating is a tad optimistic. The boulder problem is short but HARD, much harder than the crux of Fishlips and probably Fuego. I can only think of one other 11 in the canyon that might compare and I think that one is a fair 12a.
Update: after getting back on the route in good conditions (late November, 40 degrees and shade) I'm going to remain a grade creeper by saying that we're on the ++ side of 5.11. Crisp temps won't change the fact that there are no feet at the crux, the nothings I stepped on were just a bit stickier than this spring. I also feel like being shorter than 5'10" would bump the grade a bit.
That being said, the moves are excellent and the sequence for me is an odd mix of really thuggy throws and delicate footwork/body tension, typical Fergy insecure stuff. Probably in my top 3 in the canyon now at 5.11e or so :)
By Scott H.
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 23, 2013
|A 60 meter rope will barely reach for rappel from the anchors to the bottom of watchtower main near broken serenity.|