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 ADVANCED
Hawk-Eagle Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anthurium S 
ATC T 
Body Lice TR 
Bold Finger T,TR 
Bowling Alley T 
Brother Jug T 
Central Park T 
Cinch Crack T 
Comeback Arete, The T 
Crab, The T 
Cracker Jack T 
Dead Left T 
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 
Devo T 
Die Heeda Rule T 
Emergency Brake T 
Grim Reaper T 
Grubble Gully T 
Hangman, The T 
Heart of Gold S 
Heva TR 
Hooker T 
I've Been Sick T 
Inflorescence S 
January Playmate T 
January Rush T 
Larch, The T 
Leapfrog T,TR 
Lips Like Sugar S 
Low Profile TR 
Nails to Nowhere T 
Nobody's Home T 
Pepe le Peu T 
Peter's Out T 
Peters Out - Roof Variation T 
Plinth T,TR 
Prime Time Climb T 
Resisting Arete T,TR 
Roof's Way T 
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 
Rush Buick T 
Russian Arete T 
Self Abuse T 
Shallow Grave T 
Siberian Khatru T,TR 
Slide, The T 
Squeamish, The T,TR 
Stay Hungry T 
Stranglehold T 
Tombstone T 
Uninspiring Wall T 
W 
Walk About T 
Werner Brothers' Roof T 
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 

Lips Like Sugar 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Colin Lantz ang Greg Robinson
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 432
Submitted By: micah stocker on Aug 8, 2004

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an awesome route, Lips Like Sugar follows a line of bolts through a large celing just down the hill from Cinch Crack. The route is at the lower end of Hawk Eagle Ridge so access to the route is pretty easy. Belay from a ledge about 15ft off the ground. Anchor your belayer, because a large lead fall could send your belayer into space. To climb the route head up right through 2-bolts and a small roof around 11a. Next run it out for twenty or so feet on some easy slab around 10a or 9+. Angle back left to a bolt below the roof, gain a good rest, and prepair yourself for the meet of the climg. Sustained 12 through 3-bolts on a gigantic roof. The crux involves some really funky moovs on very small crimps, and not much for feet. Overall, a really good route.

Protection 

Bring 6-8 quickdraws as well as a #1 and a #2 Camalot for the belay.


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By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 10, 2007

This definitely (probably) was a really good route for a few ascents.... Kind of became one of the grosser bolted routes here with breaking holds and gluing attempts to restore it/keep it from further hold failure.