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Hawk-Eagle Ridge
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Body Lice 
Bold Finger 
Bowling Alley 
Brother Jug 
Central Park 
Cinch Crack 
Comeback Arete, The 
Crab, The 
Cracker Jack 
Dead Left 
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) 
Die Heeda Rule 
Emergency Brake 
Grim Reaper 
Grubble Gully 
Hangman, The 
Heart of Gold 
I've Been Sick 
January Playmate 
January Rush 
Larch, The 
Lips Like Sugar 
Low Profile 
Nails to Nowhere 
Nobody's Home 
Pepe le Peu 
Peter's Out 
Peters Out - Roof Variation 
Prime Time Climb 
Resisting Arete 
Roof's Way 
Rupee Dog Route 
Rush Buick 
Russian Arete 
Self Abuse 
Shallow Grave 
Siberian Khatru 
Squeamish, The 
Stay Hungry 
Uninspiring Wall 
Walk About 
Werner Brothers' Roof 
You'll Poke Your Eye Out 

Lips Like Sugar 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Colin Lantz ang Greg Robinson
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: micah stocker on Aug 8, 2004
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is an awesome route, Lips Like Sugar follows a line of bolts through a large celing just down the hill from Cinch Crack. The route is at the lower end of Hawk Eagle Ridge so access to the route is pretty easy. Belay from a ledge about 15ft off the ground. Anchor your belayer, because a large lead fall could send your belayer into space. To climb the route head up right through 2-bolts and a small roof around 11a. Next run it out for twenty or so feet on some easy slab around 10a or 9+. Angle back left to a bolt below the roof, gain a good rest, and prepair yourself for the meet of the climg. Sustained 12 through 3-bolts on a gigantic roof. The crux involves some really funky moovs on very small crimps, and not much for feet. Overall, a really good route.


Bring 6-8 quickdraws as well as a #1 and a #2 Camalot for the belay.

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By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Sep 10, 2007

This definitely (probably) was a really good route for a few ascents.... Kind of became one of the grosser bolted routes here with breaking holds and gluing attempts to restore it/keep it from further hold failure.