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Little Rock Candy Mountain
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My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas 
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Three Musketeers, The 

Lips Like Sugar 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Evans, Gordon, Michael
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Lips Like Sugar, 5.10

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Description 

An excellent route up the sunny southwestern corner of the formation. It starts in a shallow corner with a thin crack (5.9ish). After a couple moves to the top of the corner, move slightly left to the exposed arÍte. Climb the large patina plates on the arÍte to the top. Pro includes TCUs and maybe a slung plate or two. It looks questionable from below, but ends up having solid placements right where you need them (PG). The best route on the crag.


Protection 

thin to 1"



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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 13, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Ditto what AJ said...the climbing is good and the protection, despite appearances, is actually quite good.