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Fun 5.8 route, protected very well.
This is actually a 3 pitch route, but almost no one climbs past the 1st pitch due to the last two pitches being chossy unprotected chimneys. This covers the first pitch, which is a very good route that borders on classic. The first 3/4 of the route is in a solid dihedral. The finish is pulling a small roof that isn't harder than the moves below.
Left side of Morning Glory Wall in a dihedral right of Tammy Baker's Face and the Peanut.
Gear to 1 1/2 inches. Rap Anchors
From: Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2010
Nice, solid 5.8 lead with nuts and chocks. For a first 5.8 gear lead -- it doesn't get much better. Avoid the upper pitches.
By max huecksteadt
From: Hanoi Vietnam
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This one will eat all the nuts you can take (you might as well not even bring cams). Great beginner trad lead- you can't worry with those bomber finger locks!