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Morning Glory Wall
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Lion's Jaw 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Bauman, Bob Bauman, 1967
Page Views: 3,279
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 2, 2006

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Lion's Jaw
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is actually a 3 pitch route, but almost no one climbs past the 1st pitch due to the last two pitches being chossy unprotected chimneys. This covers the first pitch, which is a very good route that borders on classic. The first 3/4 of the route is in a solid dihedral. The finish is pulling a small roof that isn't harder than the moves below.


Location 

Left side of Morning Glory Wall in a dihedral right of Tammy Baker's Face and the Peanut.


Protection 

Gear to 1 1/2 inches. Rap Anchors



Photos of Lion's Jaw Slideshow Add Photo
Fun 5.8 route, protected very well.
Fun 5.8 route, protected very well.
top rope
top rope
Comments on Lion's Jaw Add Comment
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By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2010

Nice, solid 5.8 lead with nuts and chocks. For a first 5.8 gear lead -- it doesn't get much better. Avoid the upper pitches.

By max huecksteadt
From: Leavenworth, WA
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This one will eat all the nuts you can take (you might as well not even bring cams). Great beginner trad lead- you can't worry with those bomber finger locks!