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Lion's Head

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East buttress T 
Great White Corner, The T 
Lion Tamer T 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Lion's Head Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,226'
Location: 48.7862, -116.71652 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,883
Administrators: WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Oct 8, 2012
Forecast:
You & This Area
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Getting There 

32 miles (a little over an hour drive) from Coolin, ID and about 2-1/2 hrs from Spokane:
Take Hwy 2 North to Priest River,ID. Drive North on Hwy 57 (towards Coolin) for 22 miles and turn rt. on Dickensheet Hwy. Drive 5 miles to Coolin and turn rt. on East Shore Road/Cavanaugh Bay Road. Drive 22 miles to Lion's Head Campground. Set your trip odometer to zero at the main entrance to the campground. Continue past the campground for 4.1 miles and turn right onto Idaho State Forest Road #44 (small sign). At 6.6 miles, you will pass the intersection with road #43. Continue straight on 44. At 9.8 mi. you should get a pretty good view of Lion's Head straight ahead. At 10.2 mi. You will cross Abandon Creek and come to a T-junction. Park here, or turn right and drive the somewhat overgrown logging road for another 0.3 miles to a big switchback and park.

From the hairpin turn, follow the ATV trail Southeast until the flagged climbers path takes off uphill to the left (obvious- about a 5 minute walk). Follow the pink flagging. The trail will go steeply uphill for 15 minutes- don't miss the turn to the right.
Now follow the somewhat overgrown, but good climbers trail, it will trend right and uphill for about 15 more minutes, then contour more gently toward Lion's Head. The trail will bring you to the bottom of the talus field below Lion's Head West Peak. Get your bearings here so you can find the trail upon your return (not so easy in the dark, but there are a few cairns and two large snags that make good landmarks). The Lion's Head trail is quite good, and the bushwacking is horrible, so if you can't see pink flagging at all times, backtrack until you find your last marker and try again.

Description 

On Lion's Head's imposing North Face lies the Inland Northwest's best technical alpine climb, Lion Tamer (5.10c, 6 pitches). It takes the obvious line of weakness up the middle of the face.
The South side has some easier stuff in the 5.4 to 5.8 range and there are also moderate climbs going up the East and West buttresses.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 18.7 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lion's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lion's Head:
Lion Tamer   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lion's Head

Featured Route For Lion's Head
Rock Climbing Photo: Lion Tamer 5.10c with belay stations marked by x's

Lion Tamer 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  ID : Lion's Head
Lion Tamer is a spectacular climb- In August 2016 the trail has been cleaned up and a bit of gardening has been done, hopefully it will start to see some more lovin'! The rock could use a little more traffic, but the pitches are long and sustained and the movement is super fun. All of the cruxes protect well and could be aided through if need be.1. 55M (5.10c) Start up the obvious chimney- dirty looking, but the climbing is clean and quite physical, old-school 5.9. Aft...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of Lion's Head Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lion's Head North Face
Lion's Head North Face

Comments on Lion's Head Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cqh
Sep 11, 2016
Does anyone know what the crack/corner system on the west face is like? It looks super fun

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