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Orange Crush
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Lions and Tigers and Bears 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: M Sprague 10/97
Page Views: 3,120
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007
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Emile trudging through the spring-time mank-fest

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Description 

This is a classic wandering line up the weakness in the left side of the cliff. Due to its positioning and line of travel after climbing 20 feet you are way in to the exposed zone and it just gets better as you go.

From a large flake clip the first bolt and start up the nice steep juggy holds clipping a few more bolts to a stance. It is helpful to reach back to unclip the first two bolts to reduce rope drag. At this point you are traversing right under a steep wall and as you head right and the ground below falls away you feel way exposed. After the traverse make a few moves up to good holds and traverse left following the weak line to the anchors. Or at a slightly harder grade and more exposure try the Oh My! finish (5.11b/c)


Location 

Start at a 2 bolt anchor just down from the orangahang belay bolt.


Protection 

12 bolts to anchor. 60m rope.



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By Hannah W
Jul 13, 2009

watch out for the spiders!!! I cleaned a big web off last weekend

By twellman
Apr 28, 2010

Where do you belay from? The double eyebolt anchor below orangahang? Or the bottom of the slab?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 28, 2010

Usually at the belay below the one for Orangahang. It is a bit of a cluster up there, so best to try to do it when others aren't also trying to get on the other routes unless you all can come to a civil arrangement

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 26, 2011

Amazing Route! One of the best 5.11's in Rumney! Thanks Mark.

By zclip
Jun 17, 2013

I've seen people take huge wippers on that route by skipping the last few bolts. They told me you could fall under your belayer and hit nothing but air.

I'm pretty sure some local could pour more info out here on that so that people don't go all out crazy and get hurt :)

By J Meagher
Sep 14, 2013

Are there pre-hung draws on this route?

By S. Neoh
Sep 15, 2013

There were cable draws only on the last 3(?) bolts of this climb the last time I went by OC. How long they will remain up is unknown to me. I do not think there should be fixed draws all the way up on this one.

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Sep 15, 2013

Both finishes are fixed in their entirety with permadraws.