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Morning Glory Wall
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Lion Zion 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 185'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Erik Wolfe, 1996
Season: all
Page Views: 4,295
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 1, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Lion Zion with Zebra Direct start...
180' pitch!
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Wow, this one's a doozey!
Start out on Gumby or Zebra Direct for the first 55 feet and pass the anchor at the top of Zebra Direct. Keep going up and right past some spaced out bolts on little nubs and edges. A bolted anchor comes just in time at about the same height as the second pitch of Zebra Zion. Descend in two raps with a 60m rope.


Location 

Just right of Zebra/ Zion dihedral


Protection 

lots of draws (couple long) maybe 18....



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almost to the anchor...
almost to the anchor...
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By mark d
Mar 11, 2006

i would like to get on this one. looks good.

By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 5, 2008

Nice to see the stars! Thanks! First ascent Wolfe/Devore.

It's also a great variation to Zebra Zion if you don't want to carry big gear to the top. An easy traverse to the pillar on the top of the second pitch of ZZ

Cheers, Erik

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jun 30, 2009

This route is lots of fun with constant edging and no real hard crux. Keep your weight on your feet and crimp forever.

With a 70m rope you can lower to the Zebra Direct anchors from the top. There are 8 or 9 bolts on the extension.

If linking from a lower climb put a sling on the ZD anchor and the 2nd bolt (a sling on the 1st bolt of the extension might help too).

If linking with Zebra Direct either skip the 3rd bolt or use a long sling for minimal drag.