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Lion's Head
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Lion Tamer T 

Lion Tamer 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Roskelley? FFA: John Kitel and Mark Pierce '91
Page Views: 934
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Oct 8, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Lion Tamer 5.10c with belay stations marked by x's


1. 55M. Start up the obvious 5.9 chimney. You will want to save a #.75, #1and #2 cam and a couple double slings for the traverse and pumpy roof exit at the top of this pitch. There is some loose rock here but the climbing is quite good and the gear is solid. When you reach the tough-looking flare chimney 30 feet before the roof, look for an escape out left, 20 feet of 5.10c climbing on slightly spooky flakes with good pro, then climb straight up to the roof. A pumpy undercling traverse right back into the corner leads to an obvious crack exit. A couple reachy boulder moves over a small roof will bring you to the belay.
  • *belay is obvious- 3 pitons with slings and a couple rap rings (top piton is loose, but the other two are bomber)
2. 5.9 Goes straight up the obvious groove and has a nice 5.9 layback at the end that deposits you on an ample ledge.
  • *Look for slings on trees, your choice of a couple good belay spots.

3. takes you up some more wide but awesome 5.9 maneuvers and puts you directly into good 5.10 thin hands and laybacks. After this little crux another 50 or so feet of 5.9 will bring you to a comfy belay ledge

4. Fun 5.9 laybacking up a wide crack to an awkward mantle. Some easy face climbing and a finish behind a wide flake.
  • * We combined pitch 3 and 4

5. Climb the chimney overhead (easier than it looks) Go straight up a finger crack in an open book with a couple cruxy 5.10 moved. Exit left via a 5.10- hand traverse. Surmount the left-facing flake and climb up a ramp to the right, to a large mossy belay ledge.

6. Now an easy exit right will get you close to the top. Low fifth. Climb up the corner 15 feet or so, and walk the foot rail to the right around the corner. From here it is an easy scramble to the top, but best to belay soon or the rope drag around the corner can stop you cold.


Takes the obvious line right-of-center on the North Face. Look for the left-facing chimney (1st Pitch).

Descent is due south via two slabby raps with one 60.
  • * First rap station is in a bunch of trees directly over the South Face Slab route.
To find 2nd rap station, drop directly down the South Face. with 10 m of rope left, youÂ’ll rap over a bulge, land on a small ledge and scramble back up 8 feet to slings and a big cable around a good-sized tree.
From the base, look for the easy ramp that will take you up to the West shoulder. From here, there is another easy ramp down the North Face that will take you almost to the base of the route.


- single set of C3's from 0 to 3
- double set of C4's from .4 to 3
Some call for a #4. I did not feel a #4 was necessary, and I did sew up the crux sections.
- 1 set of nuts
- 8-10 alpine draws
- 2 double length slings
- one 60m rope
  • *snow field at the base is not an issue later in the season, but an ax may be handy in early season.

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