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{10} Backdoor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Overhang T,TR 
Back Door Man T,TR 
Basement Corner T 
Big Rock Falling S 
Coach Demonstrates S 
Cowboy Arete S 
Dragon Pole T 
Dragon with Matches T 
Everybody's Welfare S 
Flying Teeth T,TR 
Hao Ren Alang S 
Harley Davidson S 
Hermit Crab S 
High Class Quickdraw S 
Into Thin Air TR 
Jeff's RP Crack T,TR 
Just Five-Thirteen S 
Lava Tube S 
Lion Queen S 
Motorcycle S 
New Ferrari S 
Phantom Fright T 
Redhead S 
Rodeo Clown T 
Security Blanket T 
Sidestep T,TR 
Slab Sea T,TR 
Three-Legged Dog T 
Twisting S 
Under the Staircase TR 
Vita S 
Water Heater Route T,TR 
Who Fooled Who? S 

Lion Queen 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Oct 8, 2012

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The route furthest left on the Old Man Wall; right of Hermit Crab and some other bolted route, but left of Lava Tube. It's also the easiest route on this wall. Make an awkward start far left of the first bolt, then move back right. At the bulge, the crack may seem tempting, but stay on the bolt line. Crux it on good crimps. The fourth clip will likely be made at your hip and far to your right. Haul through overhangs on big jugs, mantel a glued flake, and make a final balancy move to the anchors.


Far left route on the Old Man Wall proper


316 steel (2007)

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