Lion of Judah
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BETA PHOTO: Our start of the route follows the holds near the ...
This colorful route had fallen dusty by the time we had found it. Our start was essentially right between the two noted in Watts's Guidebook, about 3 ft left of first bolt. Head up to a lieback feature, which can be chimneyed. Good edges pull onto the first face until bolt 3 or 4, where a strenuous mantel allows you to traverse right into the corner. If you can get through the first few moves in the corner it gets progressively easier finishing on fantastic patina-like jugs. Like any true 11d at Smith expect solid 5.12 climbing(about as hard as White Trash or T2BH), but the intimidating climbing under the first bolts deters many.
Bolt line between White Trash and Just Say No/Try to Be Hip
8 bolts to one good bolt, bad bolt, and a knife blade. Stick clip required.
BETA PHOTO: The stemming corner in the center leads to a finis...
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 22, 2014
Update October 2014: John Rich just went back up this and replaced the terrifying ancient webbing on top with big shiny chains and checked all the bolts as well as brushing everything down. The route is in great shape right now. Go get on it!