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Lion of Judah 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: TR: Chuck Buzzard 11d version: John Rich 1989, 12b: unknown
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on Oct 1, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Our start of the route follows the holds near the ...
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This colorful route had fallen dusty by the time we had found it. Our start was essentially right between the two noted in Watts's Guidebook, about 3 ft left of first bolt. Head up to a lieback feature, which can be chimneyed. Good edges pull onto the first face until bolt 3 or 4, where a strenuous mantel allows you to traverse right into the corner. If you can get through the first few moves in the corner it gets progressively easier finishing on fantastic patina-like jugs. Like any true 11d at Smith expect solid 5.12 climbing(about as hard as White Trash or T2BH), but the intimidating climbing under the first bolts deters many.


Location 

Bolt line between White Trash and Just Say No/Try to Be Hip


Protection 

8 bolts to one good bolt, bad bolt, and a knife blade. Stick clip required.



Photos of Lion of Judah Slideshow Add Photo
The stemming corner in the center leads to a finish on awesome, porcelain thin jugs!
BETA PHOTO: The stemming corner in the center leads to a finis...
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