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Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson @1985 - Bryan Smith FFA 2010
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010

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Description 

Start just left of Day of Atonement and head up a shattered left-facing shallow corner crack. Continue directly up a minor corner/chimney feature until you can traverse left under an overhanging block to gain the anchor on the top. 2nd route done here.

Protection 

Gear to 3".


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By bryans
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Actually, Lion of Judah stops at the 30-35 foot ledge with two dihedrals above it, and no anchor. The left side dihedral is the finish to "Naughty and Nice" and goes at 10d. The right side dihedral I called "Sugar and Spice" after I rapped in, trundled loose blocks, and freed it on lead. It goes at slightly spicy 10a. Jim and Mike may have aided one or both dihedrals, but did not free either.

A note for leaders and their followers: to reach an anchor while leading "Lion of Judah/Sugar and Spice," upon reaching the obvious minor roof around 60 feet you must either traverse even further left to the "Naughty and Nice" anchor (your second must be solid at 5.8/9 or else a swing could be ugly), or else climb around the minor roof to reach the "Day of Atonement" anchor on the right. I hope this helps clarify the relationship between these three routes.
By Healyje
Sep 3, 2010

Sugar and Spice is the name everyone uses for this line - it finishes up and right to the anchor it now shares with 'Day of Atonement' and there is an intermediate pin on the way to it. Here Bryan and I part company - the top out to the anchor is not a big deal at all in my opinion and don't feel there is any need for a PG-13 rating.