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Dum's Kitchen
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Lion King 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Volker & Melanie Schoeffl, Sam Lightner Jr.
Page Views: 2,356
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Wrestling with the Lion King

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Lion King has a huge distinctive flake on it. Climb to beneath the flake, and then traverse out right and up the right side of the flake. Steep edges and tricky moves lead to the crux right before the anchor.

Protection 

4 titanium glue-ins with anchors at the top.


Photos of Lion King Slideshow Add Photo
Emily on the Lion King
Emily on the Lion King
Manuel flake close-up
Manuel flake close-up
getting up to the flake... getting ready to take a...
getting up to the flake... getting ready to take a...
pulling into the crux of Lion King
pulling into the crux of Lion King
Hanging on the rest before the finish, great climb...
Hanging on the rest before the finish, great climb...
Manuel putting some latin energy into Lion King's ...
Manuel putting some latin energy into Lion King's ...
the lion king.
the lion king.
Manuel on upper section of Lion King
Manuel on upper section of Lion King

Comments on Lion King Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 23, 2014
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Dec 19, 2006

Just to let eveyone know, a few people have broken ankles falling off right side of the flake... they hit the dihedral wrong. Fall AFTER you clip the bolt!!!! Personally, I skip that clip and go to the next bolt.
Sam
By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 24, 2006

I didn't do any deadpoint up there, and I'm short....like really short. It's not a height-dependent move; I think folks are just pumped and desperate.
By richard magill
Mar 10, 2007

steep and harder than it looks - way fun
By Clay Rardon
From: Bartow, WV
Dec 28, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

absolutely brilliant, but the sloping foot under the flake is getting a bit slick. enjoy.
By aaronsong
Dec 10, 2008

great and fun route. the foothold below the flake... well its really slippery and small. do try it!
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Mar 24, 2011

This just got replaced in Ti. I think its pretty solid 12a these days.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Mar 24, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Sam, I assume your referring to the polished feet on the traverse? For me the crux was the last few moves, which probably haven't gotten any harder right?
By Glen Charnoski
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 13, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Awesome varied sustained climbing. I found the crux to be the throw to the last hold near the anchor, when you're good and pumped.
By Ming
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great climb - it's harder than it looks because of the slight overhang that makes the traverse more tricky and needed more power (ie core strength) than I thought from the ground. It's all there though and not tricky - the top crux didn't feel crux-y to me as I flowed right through to the clipping hold at the top - they are bigger than they seem from below. The clipping hold is big and quite comfortable.

I convinced my wife to try it on top rope and without the upper body and core strength she couldn't do it without me hauling her up - it is a much stronger route than it looks.
By IAmNotLegend
Dec 20, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Did this in Oct '11, very fun route but I suspect the difficulty depends on a climber's strengths. The traverse is powerful and there is a technical finish waiting at the top, so there is a little something for everyone here.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Apr 23, 2014

Yes Sir!