Lion King 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Volker & Melanie Schoeffl, Sam Lightner Jr. |
| Submitted By: | Art Morimitsu on Dec 7, 2006 |
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pulling into the crux of Lion King
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description The Lion King has a huge distinctive flake on it. Climb to beneath the flake, and then traverse out right and up the right side of the flake. Steep edges and tricky moves lead to the crux right before the anchor.
Protection 4 titanium glue-ins with anchors at the top.
Emily on the Lion King
| getting up to the flake... getting ready to take a...
| Hanging on the rest before the finish, great climb...
| the lion king.
| Wrestling with the Lion King
| Manuel putting some latin energy into Lion King's ...
| Manuel flake close-up
| Manuel on upper section of Lion King
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By Sam Lightner, Jr. Dec 19, 2006
| Just to let eveyone know, a few people have broken ankles falling off right side of the flake... they hit the dihedral wrong. Fall AFTER you clip the bolt!!!! Personally, I skip that clip and go to the next bolt. Sam |
By Art Morimitsu From: Huntington Beach, Ca Dec 24, 2006
| I didn't do any deadpoint up there, and I'm short....like really short. It's not a height-dependent move; I think folks are just pumped and desperate. |
By Clay Rardon From: Morgantown, WV Dec 28, 2007 rating: 5.11d
| absolutely brilliant, but the sloping foot under the flake is getting a bit slick. enjoy. |
By aaronsong Dec 10, 2008
| great and fun route. the foothold below the flake... well its really slippery and small. do try it! |
By Sam Lightner, Jr. Mar 24, 2011
| This just got replaced in Ti. I think its pretty solid 12a these days. |
By Ryan Williams Administrator From: London (sort of) Mar 24, 2011 rating: 5.11
| Sam, I assume your referring to the polished feet on the traverse? For me the crux was the last few moves, which probably haven't gotten any harder right? |
By Glen Charnoski From: Boulder, CO Oct 13, 2011 rating: 5.11d
| Awesome varied sustained climbing. I found the crux to be the throw to the last hold near the anchor, when you're good and pumped. |
By Ming Nov 2, 2011 rating: 5.11b/c
| Great climb - it's harder than it looks because of the slight overhang that makes the traverse more tricky and needed more power (ie core strength) than I thought from the ground. It's all there though and not tricky - the top crux didn't feel crux-y to me as I flowed right through to the clipping hold at the top - they are bigger than they seem from below. The clipping hold is big and quite comfortable. I convinced my wife to try it on top rope and without the upper body and core strength she couldn't do it without me hauling her up - it is a much stronger route than it looks. |
By IAmNotLegend Dec 20, 2011 rating: 5.11c
| Did this in Oct '11, very fun route but I suspect the difficulty depends on a climber's strengths. The traverse is powerful and there is a technical finish waiting at the top, so there is a little something for everyone here. |
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