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Linville River Crag

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Bad Monkey T,S 
Casual Corner T 
Chimney Man T 
Clever Corner T 
Creepy Corner T 
Crimson Corner T 
Default Plan T 
Garden Variety T 
Hell In A Handbasket T 
Hemlock Arete T,S 
In there like swimwear... T 
It's about Time... T 
Jackpot T 
Light Thoughts... T 
Slim Pickins' S 
Switcharoo T 
Tightsqueeze T 
Vaseline Machine Gun T 
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Linville River Crag  

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Page Views: 6,937
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nbrown on Jan 18, 2008
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68° | 49°
Partly Cloudy
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71° | 50°
72° | 48°
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64° | 42°
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If you are looking for a nice place in the back country to camp and climb for a couple days, then this is the place for you. However, it is also pretty reasonable to hike in and just climb for the day. There is fantastic camping down along the Linville river, with a short approach up to the crag, and great swimming holes along the river in this location. The wall faces mostly north, but is fairly well sheltered from the winds. The rock is the same high quality stuff found at Hawksbill. The routes are mostly natural, following fantastic features, including a wild freestanding pinnacle. The cliff is very small, but the quantity and quality makes it a worthy endeavour. Also, of special not: the popular bouldering area is located below the crag, extending northward towards the bridge.

Note: There have recently been a few anchor modifications to some of the routes at this crag, so some of the information listed elsewhere may not be totally accurate.

Getting There 

From the west rim (Kistler Memorial Hwy), approach via Connely Cove trail. Upon reaching the river walk north for about 5-10 minutes. The approach trail is off to the left on a subtle ridge just before walking below the lower cliff band (obvious). Follow it uphill for about 200 yards until you enter through the wild chimney seperating the Spire/Pinnacle and the main wall. It should take about 45 minutes to get there. Note: One can also approach the river trail via Spence Ridge Trail. It is longer, but with much less elevation change. Generally, people approaching from the east rim would be better off seeing this route.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.8 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Linville River Crag:
Chimney Man   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Garden Variety   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 50'   
Jackpot   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Linville River Crag

Featured Route For Linville River Crag
Pat on the FFA

Vaseline Machine Gun 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag
One of the best single pitch hard gear lines in NC. It really doesn't get much better than this for the grade. A great mix of crack and face, with some dynamic movements also....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Linville River Crag Slideshow Add Photo
The free standing pinnacle where the trail meets the cliff.
The free standing pinnacle where the trail meets t...
Chimney Man.  This route has a new bolt protecting the somewhat sketchy start.
Chimney Man. This route has a new bolt protecting...
Tony following the stout "Clever Corner".  This is one sweet route!
Tony following the stout "Clever Corner"...
Frost on his "near" flash of the classic "Clever Corner"
Frost on his "near" flash of the classic...
Chimney Man.  There are 2 finishes for this route.  Either move left out of chimney to anchors, or climb the large roof crack/rail as seen here to anchors.
Chimney Man. There are 2 finishes for this route....
Picture taken from another site.  This is the pinnacle/spire from across the gorge.  The crag entrance is through the  chimney here.  The main wall is behind to the right and a bit out of sight.
BETA PHOTO: Picture taken from another site. This is the pinn...
Hemlock Arete
Hemlock Arete
Some of the routes in view from Wiseman's.
BETA PHOTO: Some of the routes in view from Wiseman's.

Comments on Linville River Crag Add Comment
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By David Barbour
From: Denver
Jun 10, 2013
Is this close to other climbing areas in the Gorge? Planning on camping there for 4 days on 4th of July weekend.
By Edward Medina
From: Brighton, CO
Jun 11, 2013
as the crow flies, yes. But you would have to drive a good bit to get from the West side of the gorge over to the crags on the East side. Probably just under an hour driving to get from Conley Cove Trailhead to Table Rock parking lot.