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Linn Cove Lullaby 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Lee Carter, Dan Perry 1981
Page Views: 2,295
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Nov 19, 2006
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SS half way up the 1st pitch. Oct.09
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1- Climb up lower-angled terrain right of a prominent waterstreak. Aim for the system of finger-sized cracks/roofs above. Undercling out and pull a couple of bulges (crux) to a fixed belay at two bolts. 5.9, 100'.

P2- Climb up a small right-facing corner to a bolt, move right on thin holds (crux) and pull a bulge. Climb steeper terrain on huge holds to the top. 5.10a, 40'.

NOTE: As with most routes here, the pitches can be linked if most pro is clipped long.


Location 

Route is more or less in the middle of Ship Rock's main tier. Look for a dead tree at the base. The fixed belay can be spotted from below.


Protection 

Take gear up to a #2 Camalot.



Photos of Linn Cove Lullaby Slideshow Add Photo
SS just below the bolted belay Oct.09
SS just below the bolted belay Oct.09
Aaron pulling through the crux on P2...hugh holds and good feet from here on out.
BETA PHOTO: Aaron pulling through the crux on P2...hugh holds ...
SS headed for the top. Oct .09
SS headed for the top. Oct .09
P2 crux sequence pic #2
BETA PHOTO: P2 crux sequence pic #2
Aaron moving into the crux on P2 of Lynn Cove.
BETA PHOTO: Aaron moving into the crux on P2 of Lynn Cove.
Preparing to blast off from the P1 belay.
Preparing to blast off from the P1 belay.
Comments on Linn Cove Lullaby Add Comment
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By Matt Westlake
Nov 30, 2009

The route description and the photo of the climber on pitch two of this route seems a little different than what's in the Lambert/Shull guide, at least what the picture would suggest. Pg 100 shows a climber heading up through the "steep crux" (an overhang) rather than through thin holds on the right. Is this a variation? Looks like folks can take either the left side of the corner for the overhang or the right side for a thin crux - or perhaps both are correct and one ends up moving back right after the overhang? Anyone have any beta on this?

By Josh Bittner
Jan 29, 2010

Nick,
The climb is pretty obvious once you're there. From the P2 belay go straight up clipping a bolt...mabye...~8' off the belay. All you do is follow the obvious line up and to the right. The crux is in the corner after the bolt. Right hand goes wayyyy out to your right and there is a huge jug just after the roof. It's really a one move wonder and the pro is a bomber bolt. Don't worry...it's obvious where to go. I'll post a series pic of the crux here in a sec.

Do the route...you won't be sorry. :)
~Josh

By Matt Westlake
Jul 12, 2010

Finally made it out for the lead and I completely agree. For me the crux was not bad at all, although the sort of runout first pitch did get my heart racing a bit. Wandering, manky rock down low, then no gear on that slabby bit until the roof, then you get a tiny C3 pocket! At least the moves to that point weren't too bad. Top pitch was a breeze, although it looks intimidating.

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 16, 2012

Beautiful Route and honestly not that hard for the grade! Excellent route with ample protection! Hop on it!

By Kyle Kimball
From: Asheville, NC
Jul 24, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Having done this climb twice, the first pitch is way harder than the second. Maybe I went the wrong way at the beginning and end, but the "crux" right off the P2 belay seems like nothing after the scary first pitch.