The crux is reading the route. It has an inobvious offwidth to it that requires a #5 camelot. It was sandy when I did it and there was a large detached flake half the size of a car door that could fall off- dont be discouraged this was an engaging route with cool stemming, offwidth etc
Route is located to the far right of 4x4. Plaque at the base identifies the route as well as it being adjacent to a large pillar/ chimney system. All I had at the time was a possibly short 60m. A full 70m rope will most likely make it to the deck
upto old #5 camelot for the offwidth. a bevy of handsized gear, some smaller stuff for the top just below the anchor 0.75 camelots
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
top is kind of tougher than it looks. interesting route.
Mar 19, 2013
Assuming the photo I posted is Linkage and not "Unnamed 5.10" (see photo of next route in MP) a 70 gets you down no problem. Not 140 feet.
|By Dave Goodell|
May 2, 2013
Any consensus on whether the route photo is actually of Linkage or of this Unnamed 5.10?
I don't have the Bloom guide book handy, and I've heard that it has some mistakes for routes at the far right of the wall (starting around Collision Course maybe?).
I climbed the pictured route a couple of days ago and found the offwidth to be burly and a bit hard to protect without a #5 or #6 Camalot. A 70m is fine for rapping or TR. A TR here will also let you play around in the easy yet unprotectable chimney just to the left (we jokingly called it "Strut", though surely someone else has climbed it before).
|By Charlie S|
From: Ogden, UT
May 27, 2013
No, the photo currently posted is not Linkage. This route sits around the right of a large detached flake/block/pillar. Right before the flake/block/pillar reads a plaque: "Knobby Tires." Since Linkage is to the left of Knobby Tires, this can't be Linkage.