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Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 
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Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Buncha different folks in different years
Season: Anytime it's dry and the South Face is open
Page Views: 3,533
Submitted By: andyf on Sep 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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The view from the top of Dastardly Crack. That's ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great link-up of classic (mostly) hand cracks that takes a direct line up the South Face, ending at the hiker's trail for an easy descent.

P1, Free for All (5.8 or 5.9): Start at a small detached pillar, climbing either the left or right sides. The left side is harder (given .10a in Portland Rock Climbs); if climbing it, bring a couple of slings to girth-hitch constrictions up high. From the pillar top, a seemingly endless exposed steep hand crack finally leads to a ledge. Climb up and slightly right past the ledge to a semi-hanging belay tucked deep inside a corner (rap hangers on right-hand wall). 150' pitch.

P2, Dod's Jam (5.10b): Lieback & stem your way up an off-width corner that's actually quite fun, not awkward. The crack narrows often enough to get good pro without having to lug any big pieces. From the top of the corner, monkey past a tree, then tackle an exquisite thin hands crack (.10b) splitting a steep, exposed face below the spacious Big Ledge.

P3, Dastardly Crack (5.9): Step left from Big Ledge into a deep right-facing corner. It's classic hands and stemming pretty much the whole way to the top, with the crux coming where the crack bulges about halfway up. Belay at rap hangers.

P4: Climb more or less straight up from the belay, then wander left up steps and into a corner system that ends right next to a switchback on the hiker's trail. This pitch is brushy, mossy, and dirty in places, but it's kinda fun in a perverse alpine sort of way.

Descent: Hike down the hiker's trail, or skip the last pitch and rap from the top of Dastardly Crack (double ropes needed?).

Location 

Toward the far left end of the South Face, past the Third Tunnel. Free For All starts up a small detached pillar just right of Free for Some and Windsurfer.

Protection 

To 3". Great placements for both nuts and cams (bring both). Nothing tiny needed.


Photos of Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack Slideshow Add Photo
P2, Dod's Jam (the FUN off-width corner start)
P2, Dod's Jam (the FUN off-width corner start)
P3, Dastardly Crack
P3, Dastardly Crack

Comments on Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack Add Comment
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By The Grit
From: PDX
Sep 17, 2008

With a 60m rope and about 20 ft. of simu climbing you can reach the trail in one pitch totally forgoing a fourth pitch. Its a good way to go, especially if you like chos and P.O. I would recommend rapping instead. Shouldn't need two ropes.
By Steve Wolford
Apr 2, 2011

Leading the 2nd pitch of Dods Jam it says here you don't need any big pieces, but that is inaccurate. You can feather in some small stuff in the back of the crack but its questionable. Much better to just bring a #4 and #5 for bomber placements in the offwidth section and run it out IMO, then a bunch of crappy small gear.
By GhaMby
From: Heaven
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

We dragged a 4 & 5 and I appreciated not having to mess with the little funky pieces you would need.

Dodd's is solid 10c, despite all these tough guy sandbagger's on here, and Dastardly Crack is 10a! Even with these ratings you'll feel like you're working for the grade!
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I agree with Sweagan on the ratings comments. As for the last 'pitch', you can combine it with Dastardly crack if you have a 70m, but make sure you save some wider gear (3-4") for the last bit to the hiker's trail. The section above the anchor for Dastardly Crack is not to be taken lightly.
By Healyje
Nov 30, 2011

I suppose you could funk around with wide pro, but it really isn't necessary.

I lead the p2 offwidth all the time with just two large stoppers, each placed in an utterly bomb slot - one at 1/3 and the other at 2/3s of the way up the offwidth. Both can be placed from solid, stemmed stances.

Both placements are classic and couldn't be more solid; they are however back a ways in the crack (but obvious if you are looking) so each needs an extended trad draw. I use an HB Alloy offset #11 for the first slot and a Wild Country Rock #11 (green) for the second.
By bryans
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

We did this line yesterday. I brought 2 4 inch cams for the offwidth on Dod's. I could see the nut placements Joseph talks about. But my god, who wouldn't just want to walk a couple big cams with them for the second half of the pitch instead of sketching and fussing about with their arm 3 feet back in the crack? The extra weight of the cams is pretty trivial given this pitch is vertical, not overhanging. Joe, i love you, but your advice is pretty specific to nuts like you who have this wired and can lead it with just 2 nuts on your rack. (Also Dastardly, which I always love, would be 10a whether it was at Smith Rock's Lower Gorge, Joshua Tree, Paradise Forks, Broughton, etc. Or just call it 9plus?)
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Oct 9, 2014

As to the gear discussion above: I found 1 #4 for to be perfect for walking and back protecting on the P2 OW. Also, why on earth is the anchor at the base of this pitch (P2) at a hanging stance 2 meters above a huge ledge? It makes absolutely no sense...

Lastly, we got off in 3 single rope raps with a 60 and no shenanigans. To do this it was super helpful to forgo the hanging stance mentioned above and rap 2 meters lower/climber's left to the bolts with the tat/rings at the detached pillar/ledge. The rope reached from here. Barely. (don't tie knots)
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
22 hours ago
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Max, don't use the hanging stance! I thought Dastardly 5.9. I hauled not only a #4, but a #5 and happily used both on P2.