|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Eric Odenthal on Apr 18, 2012|
|Comments on Linda's Way||Add Comment|
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By Greg D
May 14, 2012
|This route has a plaque under it calling it Linda's Way 5.9. It appears that the bolter placed the highest bolt on this route right in the middle of the final 20 feet of Pork Soda which I came upon while climbing Pork Soda which I have climbed many times several years ago as well as today. The new line leads right to the existing anchor of Pork Soda which is fine but to place a bolt right in the middle of a long time existing route is unacceptable. Please remove it and reinstall it out of reach of a long time existing route.|
Sep 6, 2012
Sorry about the bolt Greg, it has since been moved and then removed all together. When I first climbed Pork Soda I exited right at the top of the crack along some face holds and via a chossy ramp to gain 2 older bolts to the right and moved back left to the anchor. Later I led it straight up, placed a bolt to protect the face which has a bit of choss. On the head wall of Linda's Way the crack had some rotten flakes in the crack but I was able to step right and clip the bolt on the upper slab of Pork Soda. Recently I led Linda's Way, cleaned the rotten flakes on lead and was able to lead the top on gear. So no more bolt.
The 2 older bolts right of Pork Soda actually belong to a climb between A Good Day to Die and Pork Soda. Name unknown and the only things I know for sure is there was a single bolt on the ledge for the belay, which there are now 2, and a fixed stopper at the roof. I cleaned the death blocks above the belay and some of the choss on the lower face. The flake is fragile so be careful. Felt about 9+ or 10-. Ends at the same anchor as Linda's Way and Pork Soda. Oh yeh, I gave it the name Diary of a Fixed Stopper.
I rate Linda's way about 10b with the new finish.