Lincoln Lake Slabs Rock Climbing
This is a pristine alpine setting just down a ways off the side of the road! There are a few walls around 100-200 feet with what seems to be no development. There are a few possible line options some of which could be free routes and some of which are aid routes to all but the mutants. Also there is some adventure bouldering to be had through out Lincoln Park (don't even ask for beta do a search or just go take a look yourself).
Per Ken Trout
This granitic cliff may become famous someday as the highest altitude almost-roadside-crag on the continent. The slabs overlook Lincoln Lake and are just below the Mt. Evans Road; a pleasant alternative to the gnarly Black Wall.
During the hot summer of 2012, a lot of new routes were developed. Most of the slabs are inside a wilderness boundary. Any drilling should be done by hand.
The slabs get sun in the morning and can feel a little warm when temperature climbs to 100+F in Denver. The afternoon shade can feel wonderfully cold when the heat is on. If the weather is not stormy, then after-work ascents are possible. It is about 90 minutes of driving from downtown Denver.
The Lincoln Lake Apron (5.7+)
(5.11-) probably have the best rock.
The cracks had been kept somewhat secret for several decades because there are a lot of columbine flowers
at the base. Please tread carefully and keep the dog tied up tight.
Never trust a mountain goat, they are creepy and even kill people sometimes. One tried to get at me from the rim while I was hand drilling the anchor for Loose Bolt
, but I was out of reach.
A. Ewoks Don't Sport Climb
, 10 A2 R, 1p, 70', bolts, gear.
, 10, 1p, 70', gear.
, 11- or ?C1-2?, 1p, 110', gear.
D. Sport Dike
, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Uncle Puffy
, 11-, 1p, bolts.
F. Gettysburg Address
, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
, 8, 1p, bolts.
H1. Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation)
, 11, 1p, 65', gear.
H2. Kneel Armstrong
, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
J. Double Exposure
, 10-, 2p, 200', gear & bolts.
K. Dan Hare's Route
, 9 PG-13, 2p, 220', gear.
L. Loose Bolt Slab
, 10- PG-13, 1p, 140', bolts & gear.
M. Golden Slab
, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 110', gear.
above N and left. Emancipation Arete
, 10-, 1p, 130', bolts.
N. Lincoln Lake Apron
, 7+ PG-13, 4p, 350', bolts & gear.
O. Secret Ramp
, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
P. Unknown, 10 R?, gear & bolt?
Q. Short Arete
, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts +/- gear. Eds. note, this is a combination of 2 submissions that describe the same area. To avoid duplication and confusion, this has been combined. For what it is worth, "Lincoln Lakes Slab" and Jabba are noted in an old
Rock & Ice article Issue #32 and Peter Hubbel's 1993
Front Range Crags guidebook on page 175
Drive up CO Hwy 103 to Mt. Evans and go up Evans. There is a long lake on the left (Lincolin Lake) before you get to Summit Lake, with some obvious rock features about 1000 feet above (right next to the road). There are a couple small pulloffs on the dropoff side of the road at and after the corner just as you pass over the top of the last cliff.
Per Ken Trout
: The Mt. Evans road curves around the cirque containing Lincoln Lake. The best way to hike down is from the far left (south) end of the crag. Parking is best where the road bends away from the cirque on the way to Summit Lake. Other small parking spots exist and there is usually a lot of room by the roadside snowbank at the head of the cirque.
Climbing Season For the Mt. Evans area.
Weather station 2.2 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lincoln Lake Slabs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lincoln Lake Slabs:
Golden Slab 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Pika 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Sport Dike 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Jabba 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Lincoln Lake Slabs
Lincoln Lake Apron 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Lincoln Lake Slabs
For decades I assumed someone else like Bill Forrest, George Lowe, Noel Childs, Jeff Lowe, or Dan Hare had done this route. Maybe we all thought: "Naaah! It's too easy." Surprisingly, the apron has 3 really good pitches following thin cracks and dikes.Originally the route ended with a terribly dangerous friction run out on the most suspect holds of the climb. Later, I rapped in and added a bolt. The first three belays are equipped with rappel har...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Ken and Marsha Trout on Emancipation Arete.
Traditional lines on Lincoln's Wall Area.
BETA PHOTO: Lincoln's Wall.
The lake and some of the indigenous fauna (pad peo...
Flower covered approach and belay ledge for Columb...
Lincoln Buttress with some awesome trad lines.
Ken tops out on the FA of Emancipation Arete.
BETA PHOTO: Lincoln Lake Slabs.
BETA PHOTO: The Jabba buttress.
By Joe Varela
Oct 3, 2010
Park near the 6 mile marker. Anyone else know of other established routes here?
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Mar 14, 2013
They are the same. I've had trouble convincing people that Jabba/Under Colorado's Cloudy Skies is worthy. So I was super psyched to see Jason Kaplan's post, even though we had previously named and free-climbed the crack. I know he's a believer! But, I couldn't bring myself to abandon my old and previously published nomenclature. I like having both versions.
(Aiding on Jabba is certainly recommendable wall training!)
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 14, 2013
Thanks for adding this, Ken.
I agree that the proper name for the area should be used. With all due respect to the person who submitted "Lincoln's Wall"...he didn't realize routes had been done there years before and the area had a name.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 24, 2013
I believe that most of this cliff is actually on Denver Mountain Park land unfortunately. I always find it interesting that "we" sold some of our wilderness lands so that a road could be developed where otherwise not even a mountain bike could go.
Just a heads up, probably not the best idea to post up routes here although I do know of some additional development done on the right side of the cliff in recent years. There is a good map on the Evans Wilderness site that shows which parts of the cliff are actually on wilderness, but it is only a small section.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jul 2, 2013
Kevin's comment had me a bit worried and so some research was done. I found a very accurate map published by Denver Parks and Recreation. Lincoln Lake is colored as Forest Service land. Whew!
Here is a link to the Denver Parks map: denvergov.org/Portals/747/docu...
I would agree with Kevin's interpretation of the wilderness boundary as shown on maps; most of the slabs appear to be outside the wilderness and within the Mt Evans Road buffer zone.
NEW ROUTES 2016
7/24: Tombo, the arete is seeming 5.7, maybe 5.8 - easier than Golden Slab (32 meters, ten bolts plus two at the anchor on a very nice ledge. Two yellow aliens can help too but not too importantly.
The route to the left of the unnamed arete and right of Golden Slab is the most mega 5.6 sport pitch ever. Bolted close so neither cleaning nor stepping on the tundra is necessary. (15 bolts plus two at the anchor, 35 meters). If one stops at the anchor for the 5.7 arete, then only 5.5 sport (nine protection bolts, 25 meters).
There is another mega sport pitch just right of Dan Hare's Route: Lightfoot & Quickfoot, 5.9-, fifteen bolts plus two double bolts anchors since the route splits at the top. The right hand finish is 5.9+. It may still need a first bolt for the intended audience.
Up the hill between Columbine Crack and Jabba is a new two pitch mostly sport route: Gordon Light Saber, 5.10+. Marsha Trout, Beth Bennett, and I could not quite nail the crux off the belay. Same day, Nicola Masciandaro and Bo Earle sent it quickly! Use #1 or #.75 C4 Camalot on the first pitch (nine bolts, 5.9, V2 to get on belay ledge). The #1 really helps for A0ing the crux and some tiny cams help finish the monster traverse. 35 meters to the ground from the anchor on top. Swing left to Columbine Crack's starting ledge if you only have 30 meters.
4 days ago
What's the arete route to the right of Golden Slab. Bolted 5.7 - 8?