Lincoln's Throat WI3
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| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | WI3 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Winter |
| Submitted By: | KeithS on Dec 4, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch of WI 3
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Description Lincoln's Throat ascends a drainage gully on the west side of Mt. Lincoln. To get to the gully, hike the Old Bridal Path for roughly a mile. When the trail makes a sharp left turn with a moderate drop to your right, descend here through the trees to an old logging road. Follow this road alongside the brook eventually hiking in the brook proper. Follow this all the way up passing 2 other gullies, one coming down from the right, the other from the left. The gully on the left takes you to the Serpentine route. Follow the main drainage as it continues to get steeper eventually leading to the "Throat", an iced up dihedral. Some steep snow leads you to the base of the ice then have at it! Several short bulges lie above the dihedral. Keep going until you hit the krumholtz then thrash/scramble/fight your way trending right eventually running into the ridge. From here, take it left to Lafayette and down Old Bridal or right over Lincoln and down Falling Waters.
Location West side of Mt. Lincoln. Descend off of the Old Bridal Path at the sharp left turn when you hear the brook down and away to your right
Protection Several screws (6-8)
BETA PHOTO: The route as seen from Cannon...follows the obviou...
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Owen hoofing up Lincoln's Throat.
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| Comments on Lincoln's Throat |
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By bradley white
From: Rumney, N.H.
Feb 3, 2012
| That's the way to do it. Nice find. |
By M LaViolette Jr.
From: The Past
Feb 20, 2012
rating: WI3
| There is an extra left that comes off the main gully down low that confused us for a minute, just make sure to stay in the most prominent gully the whole way and you'll be on the right track. When it finally starts to get steep it will fork again, keep to the right. Also, if you're wondering if you should take your snowshoes or not, you should. There was a lot more snow in the gully than there was in the notch. We had a lot of fun, never thought I wouldn't be able to recognize Cannon cliff because it looked so small, "What the hell? Is that little dinky thing down there the Whitney-Gilman?" |
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Dec 19, 2012
| Just soloed it yesterday, and it was NOT fat like in the picture above. Definitely in the WI 4 range. There was at about 30 feet of dead vertical headwall where a lot of tool placements were hitting into the rock behind the ice. Up above the headwall it was as another reviewer remarked, "alpine perfection" up until the ridge. What was a nasty rainstorm down below was a serious snowblast with high winds up in the mountains. This is a definite must do for any NE alpinist, but if the ice looks really thin, be careful, it probably is!! It looks like there was a nice little mixed variation at a lower grade just left of the main flow which can link back up with the low angle finish up to the summit. |
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