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Lincoln Creek

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Campground Rock 
Campsite 5 Area 
Finger Food Wall 
Intruders 
Jimmy Cliff 
Lincoln Creek Cliff 
Outhouse Wall 
Phat City 
Reese's Pieces 
River Boulder 
Sunset Boulder 
Sunset Cantina 
Sunset Cliff 
Treasure Chest 

Lincoln Creek  


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Location: 39.11649, -106.69374 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 73,239
Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike C. Robinson on Mar 1, 2007
Forecast:
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Partly Cloudy
63° | 32°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
51° | 30°
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Description 

This area has a mix of sport and trad routes, 1-2 pitches in length. There are a number of crags in this area. It has great climbing and is perfect for the summer. Everyone I have met in this area has only left me with good things to say about them. Like the rest of the Pass, it has exceptional quality and number of routes. Don't miss this area if you are on the Pass. Pick up Tom Perkins' Independence Pass Climbing for routes descriptions.

Getting There 

This area is 10 miles west of Aspen and 28 miles east of Twin Lakes off of CO 82. Look for Lincoln Creek Gulch Campground and park in any number of places off this side road to get to desired crag here.

Organization 

Parking area next to CO 82
. Sunset Boulder - bouldering
. The Cube - bouldering
. Phat City
. Jimmy Cliff
. Sunset Cliff
. Lincoln Creen Cliff
Just shy of Lincoln Creek Campground
. The Egg- bouldering
. The Brain
. The Burger Shack Area
. Finger Food Wall
. Sunset Cantina
Lincoln Creek Campground - fee area
. Outhouse Wall - bouldering
. Campground Rock
. Intruders
Further up the road
. The Treasure Chest - bouldering
Campsite 5 areas
. Campsite 5 Wall - bouldering
. Beatle Juice - bouldering
. The Boulder - bouldering
. Brothel Wall
. Saloon
. Monastery
. Reese's Pieces

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.7 miles from here

95 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',7],['5.10',11],['5.11',12],['5.12',8],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',10],['V2-3',19],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lincoln Creek:
Big Mac Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Finger Food Wall
All You Can Eat   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunset Cantina
Sunset Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Sunset Cliff
Taco Time   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Finger Food Wall
Candy Apple Red   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Phat City
Softail Meets Guardrail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Reese's Pieces
Haywire   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Lincoln Creek Cliff
Cardo's Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Lincoln Creek Cliff
Finger Food   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Finger Food Wall
Cramper   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lincoln Creek Cliff
Peruvian Flake   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Lincoln Creek Cliff
Unnecessary Buffness   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunset Cliff
Mill and Main   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Phat City
I'll be Black   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Sunset Cliff
Predator   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunset Cliff
Honest Abe   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lincoln Creek Cliff
Dean's Day Off   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Lincoln Creek Cliff
The Avenger   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Sunset Cliff
Browse More Classics in Lincoln Creek

Featured Route For Lincoln Creek
Gabe working on the last hard move before the anchor.

Honest Abe 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a  CO : Independence Pass : ... : Lincoln Creek Cliff
This is a great route with plenty of good pro and sustained challenging climbing throughout. Start by mantling up onto a ledge (move protected by a bolt). Climb a steep strenuous crack with good pro and mantel again onto another sloping ledge. Good wires protect the last crux dihedral and a final bolt protects the exit moves to the anchor. The guidebook gives this route 12a but I didn't feel it was that difficult. A consensus grade should narrow it down, but I felt it was somewhere around 1...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Lincoln Creek Add Comment
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By Giulio
From: Waterville, ME
Jul 19, 2007
Any Burger Shack Beta?
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Jul 19, 2007
PM me with what specific items you are looking for, I've climbed there a few times.
By Giulio
From: Waterville, ME
Jul 20, 2007
I'm mainly curious about grades and protection. I'm also not exactly sure how to get there. Thanks
By Greg
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Aug 4, 2007
Gorg,

Climbed at the Burger Shack today ....take Lincoln Creek Campground road, across bridge...head down about 1/4 mile to a sharp, right, hairpin turn, can't miss it.

Burger Shack trail is on the left, right before the hairpin turn.

Grades? I climbed stuff up to 5.8+ ish...trad or toprope with bolt anchors.

Have fun and be safe.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 4, 2010
Does anyone have any beta on the huge boulder resting in the creek 100 yds from the turnoff for LC and just off of Colo 82? While driving down to the camping we checked out this magnificant boulder. There was some chalk on it, so someone has been using it. However, this is a highball specialist's boulder, and it looks very hard in some places.
By Unassigned User
Aug 11, 2011
Not very good directions. There's like 20 pulloffs if not more.