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Lincoln Creek Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cardo's Corner T 
Cramper T 
Dad's Day Off T 
Dean's Day Off T 
Haywire T 
Honest Abe T,S 
Landslide T 
Peruvian Flake T 
Sauerkraut T,S 

Lincoln Creek Cliff Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 4,098
Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007
Forecast:
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68° | 44°
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68° | 44°
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69° | 45°
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64° | 44°
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Description 

This is a wide stretch of quality rock with maybe a dozen older trad and mixed routes and a couple newer sport lines. Perhaps the earliest and definitely most historic route here is Henry Barber's Dean's Day Off.

Getting There 

Best directions will be had in Tom Perkins' guidebook.

The vast majority of the crags are on the left (South) side of the road as you drive up the pass, while Lincoln Creek, a valley branching off to the Southeast from the main highway, offers good climbing as well.

Per D-Storm: park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield – stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff – which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" – and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff.

Per BJ Sbarra: There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow.

Climbing Season

For the Lincoln Creek area.

Weather station 4.7 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lincoln Creek Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lincoln Creek Cliff:
Cardo's Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Cramper   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Peruvian Flake   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Honest Abe   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Dean's Day Off   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lincoln Creek Cliff

Featured Route For Lincoln Creek Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Landslide.

Landslide 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Independence Pass : ... : Lincoln Creek Cliff
Start in the right-facing corner, black water streak. Stem and jam your way up a slot, easily avoided to the left. Continue up the the final "headwall" and choose your finish. Easiest out left, flaring straight up or move right and finish up on the finger crack of Peruvian Flake (a move of 9+/10-).There are two Metolius rap hangers just above the lip of the finish, the right one spins and will need replacing sooner than later. You do not see these hangers until you top out. The...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Lincoln Creek Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By D-Storm
Sep 15, 2010
To write "see guidebook for directions" defeats a major purpose of this site — I don't have a guidebook and am looking for the info here! Thanks for nothing. I still don't know how to get to this cliff. I bring this up so people will be better about it in future posts.
By D-Storm
Jun 24, 2013
Finally found my way over to this cliff. Park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield – stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff – which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" – and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 25, 2013
There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow.

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