| Lincoln Crag |
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| | Description A shady wet cliff band with lots of moss and growth. Thereare some decent routes and it's worth the stop if you have time to kill.
Getting There Just past Loon mountain is a condo complex. Drive up and into this complex till you get to the community center/game room. Park here and walk uphill into the closest cul-de-sac and the trail to the crag.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lincoln Crag:
Featured Route For Lincoln Crag
Octoberfest 5.9 NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : Lower Slab
Start of a block and step right to get into the flake (optional cam placement). Traverse the flake right for a couple feet until you can clip the bolt over your head. Now enter the crux, make fun moves on sloper holds to a slopey ledge. Then tackle the upper bulge on more slopey jugs, to an easy low angle finish. The easiest line wanders a little bit at the start.... [more] Browse More Classics in NH
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 1, 2012
| I don't think the description for this area does it justice. Here is my take on it,
Lincoln Crag is comprised of 4 main cliffs. the largest being Lower slab and then three other cliffs that are above the same size (Middle, First, Upper).
Lower Slab is name for the 150 foot tall on the right side but most of the climbing is located to the left on 50 - 60 foot face. The tall slab could use some cleaning but the left side where most of the routes are concentrated is very clean wherever there is a route. The climbs are all generally safe and well protected, and the styles of climbing vary. From crack to face and sport, mixed or trad routes. There is also a large roof that is listed in the Sykes guide as a Project.
Middle Ledge and First Ledge area reasonably clean on all the vertical faces, the low angle routes could use a little love, but are in decent shape. First ledge is hoe to the classic Hunchback Crack .10a a dead vertical finger crack.
Upper ledge could use a good cleaning for sure but the routes there look quality.
Also for the parking you need to park at the Sports Club parking lot. then walk back down the trail to the large stone wall you drove past and the trail leads up behind it. At the first fork branch right over some rocks and the Lower Slab will be on your left. Its impossible to miss it. To reach the other crags walk around the left side of the Lower Slab and up hill and the other crags are up that way. |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 1, 2012
| So I was just gonna bag on this area a little bit as I have spent a few days here and there over the years. Then I noticed that I started the area. At this point I only remember a good .12a (bolts) with one hard move way right. A good (best at the crag).9+/.10d around the corner to right of this that goes up a great crack/crease feature. And a .10- one move wonder roof crack problem kinda on the left hand side of the right most cliff. Maybe climbed a total of a dozen routes and nothing sticks out. Anyone can have at the descriptions. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 1, 2012
| I guess I don't understand why people people are so quick to say negative things about this little climbing area. I have only climbed a handful of routes here but I enjoyed all of them. Granted it is no Cathedral or Echo but it does have some to offer. However everyone is entitled to their opinion, just my personal opinion that this place unfairly gets a bad reputation. |
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