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Major Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Peel S 
Bananas on Acid S 
Bats out of Hell S 
Bon Bon T 
Buttress Fly S 
Cactus Practice S 
Captain Blueberry S 
Chris's Route (name will change) S 
Demon, The S 
Devil's Plaything S 
Hurt Me Not S 
Juckets & Bugs S 
Liberace's Anus S 
Limp Traddy S 
Major Chingadera S 
Major Major S 
Major Raspberry S 
Milo Mindblender S 
Pimp Caddy S 
Pimp Daddy S 
Pinche Wey S 
Prickly Proctologist S 
She Can Bolt S 
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 

Limp Traddy 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Timy
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Oct 10, 2011

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Description 

This route starts on the obvious left leaning ramp in the middle of the front side of the wall. Clip the first bolt from the ground and pull the hard start from small but positive pockets. Be careful getting to and clipping the second bolt, as there are no good clipping holds until you are above the second bolt and in groundfall range. After the second bolt rock up onto a good ledge and rest for the next boulder problem. Pull the mini-roof on tenous slopers and pockets and a difficult clip then continue up on significantly easier ground to the anchors.

This route has fun moves but the hard part is essentially two boulder problems. It is also recommended to have an attentive belayer and watch your ankles.

Timy originally graded this 12a, but I and others I have talked to feel it is harder. I changed the grade to 12b to reflect the discrepancy.

Location 

In the middle of the Front Side of Major Wall. "Cactus Practice" is on the left and there is a 12c "Limp Caddy" that starts off the same ledge and heads up and right. Look for the obvious left leaning ramp to start.

Protection 

6 Bolts to Anchors


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