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Major Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Peel 
Bananas on Acid 
Bats out of Hell 
Bon Bon 
Buttress Fly 
Cactus Practice 
Captain Blueberry 
Chris's Route (name will change) 
Demon, The 
Devil's Plaything 
Hurt Me Not 
Juckets & Bugs 
Liberace's Anus 
Limp Traddy 
Major Chingadera 
Major Major 
Major Raspberry 
Milo Mindblender 
Pimp Caddy 
Pimp Daddy 
Pinche Wey 
Prickly Proctologist 
She Can Bolt 
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy 

Limp Traddy 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Timy
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Oct 10, 2011
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Description 

This route starts on the obvious left leaning ramp in the middle of the front side of the wall. Clip the first bolt from the ground and pull the hard start from small but positive pockets. Be careful getting to and clipping the second bolt, as there are no good clipping holds until you are above the second bolt and in groundfall range. After the second bolt rock up onto a good ledge and rest for the next boulder problem. Pull the mini-roof on tenous slopers and pockets and a difficult clip then continue up on significantly easier ground to the anchors.

This route has fun moves but the hard part is essentially two boulder problems. It is also recommended to have an attentive belayer and watch your ankles.

Timy originally graded this 12a, but I and others I have talked to feel it is harder. I changed the grade to 12b to reflect the discrepancy.


Location 

In the middle of the Front Side of Major Wall. "Cactus Practice" is on the left and there is a 12c "Limp Caddy" that starts off the same ledge and heads up and right. Look for the obvious left leaning ramp to start.


Protection 

6 Bolts to Anchors



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