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This climb is the first crack just to the left of the chainlink fence. The left leaning crack starts with fingers and quickly expands to off-hands size. Stop at the chains at the top of the small column or continue up and left to the anchor atop Satisfaction.
According to the old timers, this crack is gradually getting wider over the years.
A few nuts and a single set of cams to a #4 camalot will be more than enough.
Rap from chains at the top or walk off to the north (left).
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 10, 2008
The oldtimers were right. The upper 4' of the column that is the left side of the crack fell off this May. Doesn't change the grade too much.
By Richard Dana
Mar 30, 2016
Definitely no need for a #4 on this one. Single set to #1 C4 works great, with maybe an extra purple or green for someone pushing the grade. Anchor at the top of this smaller column now consists of a single bolt with chain. Perhaps the other bolt was on a now-departed piece of column? Regardless, you can set a good directional with a .75 once atop the column, and traverse to your right to climb the fence to the top of Hard Layback/Fat Crack where solid anchors exist. Excellent climb, splitter!