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 ADVANCED
Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Kid Fears Direct Start S 
Afternoon Delight T,S 
Balance Climb 7 T 
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 
Balance Climb 2 T 
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 
Balance Climb 4 T 
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 
Balance Climb 9 T 
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 
Dihedral T 
Edges to Ledges T 
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 
Gather No Moss T 
Kid Fears T 
Latest Edition T 
Limited Edition T 
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 
New Standards S 
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 
Overhang Approach T 
Slip and Slide T 
Special Edition T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Stannard's Crack T 
Three Cam Party T 
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 
Two-Man Party Yellow S 
Unsorted Routes:

Limited Edition 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: John Fain
Page Views: 612
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on May 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Smear and edge your way up passing one or three small gear placements...can be a little run-out. The angle eases off after the first 75 feet or so. Easy climbing leads to a short steep section before finishing up under the "Second Over-hang".

Location 

Shares start with Special Edition but angles off to the right following the past of least resistance.

Protection 

Trad. There are a couple sets of bolts at the top to belay from.


Comments on Limited Edition Add Comment
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By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Jan 24, 2009

John Fain did the FA.
By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Jun 5, 2009

There are a couple of alternate starts to this route. For the start thats shared with Special Edition, belay at the lone pine on the rock ledge the same as you would for Lucy or Afternoon. The route goes up to the right of those routes, past some strange hidden cracks that can provide fingerlocks. For the right hand start that Paul described, belay over to the right at the right end of the rock ledge. Head up and then left along some small ramp like features to a point where you can step left and mantle onto the ledge where the triangular slot is located. The triangular slot is both a key hold and the pre-crux gear placement for Limited Edition. From the triangular slot, the route goes more or less straight up, past some TCU horizontals, to easier terrain and the double ring anchor at 30 meters or run it all the way to the anchor under Stanndards Crack.