Easy climbing for the first couple bolts to a rest ledge. Sequential crimps lead you through the crux. The last couple clips are on large holds but the climbing is steep and pumpy.
Park at the sign for Fucoidal Quartzite. Walk up the trail and head left. It is the climb farthest left on the wall. Starts under the tree.
|By Ryan Stott|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 23, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I'm surprised nobody has really commented on this climb. If you are looking for a 12a in this canyon, this is a great one to start with, and it is one of my favorites at the FQ area. I thought there were 2 crux moves that both involved fairly long, committing moves and small crimps. Other than that, there is some really fun movement up the steep section, while you fight the pump and rest on periodic jugs. Put this on your to-do list
|By Courtney Pace|
Mar 3, 2012
I agree with Ryan that there are 2 cruxes with a good little rest in-between. The first is more thin and crimpy, the second being long and committing which puts you on some good holds to shake out on. Then muster up the juice to blast through the steep and juggy climbing past a bolt to the chains.