Lime Line Variation 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Jameson, Boyd, Gygi '80 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Apr 3, 2004 |
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Tim, stemming his way up to the crimper.
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Description Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral. This dihedral is the crux, and may be hard to protect. Climb up thin holds in the dihedral, joining Smitty's Wet Dream after 15' - 20' up. Follow Smitty's to the anchors.
Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.
Protection Very small gear and one bolt in the slab. A TR is also possible after climbing Cranial Prophylactic or Smitty's Wet Dream, and safer.
Location Lime Line Variation is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Pass Cranial Prophylactic, and continue to the next crack system to the left.
BETA PHOTO: 1) Punany 2) Centerfold 3) Smitty's Wet Dream ...
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BETA PHOTO: Centerfold and surroundings w/o lines
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Lee, again showing us why 7 foot tall is a good th...
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| Comments on Lime Line Variation |
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By Nathan Fisher
Aug 29, 2004
rating: 5.10d
| 1 move route. A one tough move route. A one tough thinking man's move. Otherwise, obviously, the same route as Smitty's. |
By hawkeye
Oct 1, 2006
| I dont remember if being tall helps here. But FWIW Kent Jameson was about 6'6" tall. He had a mega long reach. hehe Sadly, he died in a climbing accident a number of years ago. RIP Kent. Had fun with you out on the rocks dude. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 6, 2009
| so after reaching the lip to the left do you step over into smitty's crack or do you continue straight up? I tried the straight up and it felt way harder than 10d, but pulling the initial corner onto the left corner felt more in the 10 range. |
By wren raming
From: s.l.c., ut
Nov 19, 2009
| i felt the same way as greg, not to hard to start in the corner, but topping out on the right side seemed harder then .10 d |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| There's at least 2 good small nut placements on that thing. They won't keep you from tapping when you blow the move but at least you won't roll in the talus or hit the tree. Burly move, kinda silly, height related for sure. |
By Matt Park
Aug 19, 2011
| I'm 6'6" and it was foot work that did it for me. Started with my right edged on the nice small rail about knee hight. Started to stand up on that and shot my left foot out to a small flake really high up and far out. From there you can reach really nice holds and make it out of that first big dihedral. I agree the second is harder than 10D I went out on the slab by the bolt. |
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