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South Formation
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Electric Sky 
Granite Beach 
Granite Beach Headwall 
Lima Bean 
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Lima Bean 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
FA: D. Levison and Bob Ratliff, 2002
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: XOG on Jan 1, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Southwest face of south formation ... photo by Bob...

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This is a nice route. The upper section climbs a narrow (2-4") quartz dike almost like a ladder on incut but smooth holds. The climbing up this feature is unique, fun, and of 5.10 difficulty. The crux of the climb comes lower, moving past the 2nd bolt. While the lower crux is also fun, the rock quality is less good. Beware of crumbly smears. The start is easily located just to the left of the classic Granite Beach, on the S.W. face, at ground level.


There is ground fall potential reaching the third bolt on easy terrain following crux moves past the roof, but with questionable rock quality in places. Note: The route has a mixed sport-trad variation which avoids the crux moves over the roof and the runout to the 3rd bolt. Start a little bit right at the base of a dike feature that joins the main line of the route for the last 15'. Climb directly up moderate, protectable terrain to clip the 3rd bolt, skipping the first 2 clips.

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