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Lily Mountain

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Crag of Fear 
Quickie Cliff 
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Lily Mountain  


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Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 40.3234, -105.5331 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,667
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2011
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Description 

This is a pleasant set of fairly short cliffs that lie on our National Forest land offering some pleasant moderates protected mostly with bolts. Some of the rock here is fairly atypical for the area with at least one section with interesting, wavy huecos on granite. The rock reminds you of some of the Ironclads in spots (on the upper cliff) and also some of the south and west faces in the Flatirons or even some of the less steep rock of Red River Gorge (on the middle cliff). The rock is still somewhat friable in spots even though these routes have been in for a few years, so be prepared. You can access some of the anchors from above, if you so desire. These are good crags for kids and families; however, the smallest of kids may not be able to climb the bolted lines.

Some of the developers of these crags include Rich Perch, Dan Hare, Tom Kohlman, Roland Fortin, Chris Reveley, Susan Day, Roger Truesdale, Byron Prinzmetal, Deb Thompson, Dave Rogers, and Jackie Paik. Thanks!

Thank you, Rich, for helping start to update this information!

Since it is just off a relatively popular low-end hiking trail up Lily Mt (2 miles, 1000' gain), you will get some non-climber questions like "how did you get the rope up there?" Still, for a change of pace, short approach, or after work relaxation, you may find this worth the effort.

On a foreward thinking note, the parking area for Lily Mountain's hiking trail is a crowded, roadside parking area. Please, please do your best to be reasonable with climber - non-climber interactions so as not to jeopardize our access to these crags. Also, it is to avoid conflicts with land usage, it's probably wisest to avoid bolting in plain sight of the trail.

If you have more information, please contact me and I can update this incomplete data. Thanks!

Getting There 

There are 2 approaches to these crags:

A. The most straightforward is to park at the Lily Mt. trailhead which lies on CO 7 just north of Lily Lake and south of Estes Park. The parking is roadside. The hike is largely flat for ~3/4 mile. Just after a S-shaped set of switchbacks and then a Z-shaped set of switchbacks, the uphill-most cliff appears just feet away from the trail.

B. (now closed) The other approach involves following a trail (formerly bushwhacking) along a section that was cleared for fire mitigation. Park shortly after mile marker 5. There are 2 small pullouts. The first is on the east side of the road. The second (smaller) is on the west side. Hike up shortly west of the east parking pullout just past a yellow left curve sign. If you get to a rockcut, you've gone too far south. Hike up perhaps 300 vertical feet to the crags. You will see My Grain Headache as you get closer.

This is the uphill-most crag, and it lies just downhill from the trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

35 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',10],['5.9',7],['5.10',10],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lily Mountain:
Slam Dunk   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Slamdance Buttress
A Coarse Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Slamdance Buttress
Coors Flake   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Slamdance Buttress
The Buckets Stop Here   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Crag of Fear
Chokin' the Chickenhead   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Quickie Cliff
Show Me The Monkey   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Slamdance Buttress
Burnin' Rubber   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Crag of Fear
Browse More Classics in Lily Mountain

Featured Route For Lily Mountain
Jackie, 5'2", deciphering the crux.

Lap Dance 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Slamdance Buttress
This is currently the leftmost bolted line on the west face. It connects large features with moderate reaches. Shorter climbers may start slightly to the left. The crux is midheight where you must endure one brief bit without a positive jug. This is nice and shady.Rappel off a 2 bolt anchor.Rich Perch rates this 5.9....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Lily Mountain
Photos of Lily Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Huecos.
Huecos.
Kira, 5' 2 1/2" and fighting for the holds.
Kira, 5' 2 1/2" and fighting for the holds.
Overview photo courtesy of Rich Perch.
BETA PHOTO: Overview photo courtesy of Rich Perch.

Comments on Lily Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By semicolin1
Jun 29, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
So, if you were climbing at Lily Mountain on Sunday June 29, 2014 and left your climbing shoes at the crag and are still looking for them, send me a note (pm).
By semicolin1
Jun 29, 2014
For the approach tail using Option B described above, the trail taking off from the pull-out has been "closed" (i.e. first 100' covered with slash debris). Apparently the Forest Service doesn't want this trail to be used, although it didn't look much damaged even after the 2013 torrential rains. There are no offical "closed" signs though (as of June 29, 3014).