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DescriptionThis is a pleasant set of fairly short cliffs that lie on our National Forest land offering some pleasant moderates protected mostly with bolts. Some of the rock here is fairly atypical for the area with at least one section with interesting, wavy huecos on granite. The rock reminds you of some of the Ironclads in spots (on the upper cliff) and also some of the south and west faces in the Flatirons or even some of the less steep rock of Red River Gorge (on the middle cliff). The rock is still somewhat friable in spots even though these routes have been in for a few years, so be prepared. You can access some of the anchors from above, if you so desire. These are good crags for kids and families; however, the smallest of kids may not be able to climb the bolted lines. Getting ThereThere are 2 approaches to these crags: The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lily Mountain:
Manly Bulge 5.6 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Quickie Cliff
Nooner or Later 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet Quickie Cliff
Luck of the Draw 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet Quickie Cliff
A Coarse Line 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet Slamdance Buttress
The Buckets Stop Here 5.10- Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Crag of Fear
Show Me The Monkey 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Slamdance Buttress
Burnin' Rubber 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Crag of Fear
Featured Route For Lily Mountain
Nooner or Later 5.7 CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Quickie Cliff
This is the 2nd climb from the left up this aspen-ed gully. It is probably harder for those 5'6" or less. Don't go right after the 3rd bolt, there may be a decent-sized loose block up there.Move up into a bird bath scoop. For the shorter folks, this is the crux. You must keep your feet on well enough on somewhat scaly rock to reach up and grab some positive edges. For those 5'10" or more, this will be straightforward. At the 3rd bolt, go left to the anchors.Rappel 25'.Rich Perch r...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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