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Lilly Bluff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien S 
Aneurism S 
Blade Loafer T,S 
Body Hammer S 
Borderline S 
Clyde the Mega Dude S 
Dinosaur Jr. S 
Dirty Deeds S 
Done Dirt Cheep S 
Egyptian S 
Electric Chair S 
Electric Sky S 
Gangsta S 
Heresy S 
Ivy League S 
La Familia S 
Lounge Lizard S 
Mixed Nuts T,S 
Motion Sickness S 
NC Sport Climber T 
Osiris S 
Paraphernalia S 
Piggy T 
Poison Ivy S 
Rocking Chair T,S 
Tarantella S 
Ticks Are For Kids S 
Unga Bunga T 
Wheatward Bound S 
Whipper Snapper S 
Yakuza S 
Unsorted Routes:

Lilly Bluff  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.1022, -84.7184 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,713
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Clear
71° | 52°
Clear
80° | 54°
Clear
82° | 56°
Clear
84° | 59°
Partly Cloudy
84° | 59°
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The biggest jugs you will never fall off of.

Description 

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.

Getting There 

Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.0 miles from here

31 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',12],['5.11',10],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lilly Bluff:
Rocking Chair   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Tarantella   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Ticks Are For Kids   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Blade Loafer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Ivy League   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Paraphernalia   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dinosaur Jr.   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Alien   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Electric Chair   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Whipper Snapper   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lounge Lizard   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Heresy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Poison Ivy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Clyde the Mega Dude   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Osiris   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   
Egyptian   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Gangsta   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Yakuza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
Wheatward Bound   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
La Familia   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Lilly Bluff

Featured Route For Lilly Bluff
Whipper Snapper as seen from the base of the route.

Whipper Snapper 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff
Starts on the left side of a large cave. Pull through the crack onto low angle climbing. Finish out the roof. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

Comments on Lilly Bluff Add Comment
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By Jeff Thilking
From: Lynchburg, VA
Feb 4, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 
Very Icy muddy quagmire today. Was only able to boulder up to second bolt of rocking chair before rock got too wet. Recommend a helmet when checking out routes, monster chunk of ice sheared off and landed beside me today, would have crushed my gourd.