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Lilly Bluff

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Alien S 
Aneurism S 
Backer Spit S 
Blade Loafer T,S 
Body Hammer S 
Boogie Man S 
Borderline S 
Clyde the Mega Dude S 
Dinosaur Jr. S 
Dirty Deeds S 
Done Dirt Cheep S 
Egyptian S 
Electric Chair S 
Electric Sky S 
Gangsta S 
Heresy S 
Ivy League S 
Krieg's Crack S 
La Familia S 
Lounge Lizard S 
Mixed Nuts T,S 
Motion Sickness S 
NC Sport Climber T 
Neanderthal T 
Ode to the Quitter S 
Osiris S 
Osirus S 
Paraphernalia S 
Piggy T 
Poison Ivy S 
Rebel Flag T 
Rocking Chair T,S 
Rolling Coal T 
Tarantella S 
Temporary Insanity S 
Ticks Are For Kids S 
Unga Bunga T 
Wheatward Bound S 
Whipper Snapper S 
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 
Yakuza S 

Lilly Bluff  

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Location: 36.1022, -84.7184 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,803
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007
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This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.

Getting There 

Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.

Climbing Season

Weather station 19.0 miles from here

41 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lilly Bluff:
Rocking Chair   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Tarantella   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Ticks Are For Kids   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Blade Loafer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Ivy League   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Paraphernalia   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dinosaur Jr.   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Alien   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Electric Chair   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Whipper Snapper   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Poison Ivy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Lounge Lizard   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Heresy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Clyde the Mega Dude   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Borderline   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 75'   
Egyptian   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Gangsta   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Wheatward Bound   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Yakuza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
La Familia   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Lilly Bluff

Featured Route For Lilly Bluff
In the jugs on Heresy

Heresy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff
Climb the face with a sloper crux move. Get a complete no-hands stance before the roof to lose that pump. Now just enjoy heel hooking your way across a long roof (5.10). Another classic Obed roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

Comments on Lilly Bluff Add Comment
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By Jeff Thilking
From: Lynchburg, VA
Feb 4, 2013
Very Icy muddy quagmire today. Was only able to boulder up to second bolt of rocking chair before rock got too wet. Recommend a helmet when checking out routes, monster chunk of ice sheared off and landed beside me today, would have crushed my gourd.
By kwvaughn
Aug 29, 2015
Actually the parking area is a medium sized paved area with lines and everything now. Has been for the last several years. (It's a local favorite. We go there all the time.

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