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Lilly Bluff
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Whipper Snapper 

Lilly Bluff 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Best part of the climb! Also the hardest part.

Description 

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.


Getting There 

Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lilly Bluff:
Rocking Chair   5.9-     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Tarantella   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Ticks Are For Kids   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Ivy League   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Blade Loafer   5.10b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Paraphernalia   5.10b/c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Dinosaur Jr.   5.10c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Alien   5.10d     Sport, 70 feet   
Whipper Snapper   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Poison Ivy   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Heresy   5.11b     Sport   
Lounge Lizard   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Clyde the Mega Dude   5.11b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
NC Sport Climber   5.12+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Browse More Classics in Lilly Bluff

Featured Route For Lilly Bluff
In the jugs on Heresy

Heresy 5.11b  TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff
Climb the face with a sloper crux move. Get a complete no-hands stance before the roof to lose that pump. Now just enjoy heel hooking your way across a long roof (5.10). Another classic Obed roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN


Comments on Lilly Bluff Add Comment
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By Jeff Thilking
From: Knoxville, TN
Feb 4, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

Very Icy muddy quagmire today. Was only able to boulder up to second bolt of rocking chair before rock got too wet. Recommend a helmet when checking out routes, monster chunk of ice sheared off and landed beside me today, would have crushed my gourd.