Lilly Bluff Rock Climbing
Lots of fun
This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.
Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.
Weather station 19.0 miles from here
43 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lilly Bluff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lilly Bluff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lilly Bluff:
Tarantella 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Blade Loafer 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Paraphernalia 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Ivy League 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Dinosaur Jr. 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Alien 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 70'
Poison Ivy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Osirus 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Heresy 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Osiris 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 60'
Egyptian 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 70'
Gangsta 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Yakuza 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 50'
La Familia 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Lilly Bluff
Tarantella 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TN
: Obed & Clear Creek
: Lilly Bluff
Climb the left face of the corner (sometimes wet) and clip the first bolt while hanging from a ledge. Clamber up onto the ledge for a nice rest, and clip the second bolt. Now reach down and unclip the first bolt to avoid rope drag later down the road. Wander up the right face of the corner, past another lovely rest ledge on the arete, to anchors near the top....[more] Browse More Classics in TN
By Jeff Thilking
From: Lynchburg, VA
Feb 4, 2013
Very Icy muddy quagmire today. Was only able to boulder up to second bolt of rocking chair before rock got too wet. Recommend a helmet when checking out routes, monster chunk of ice sheared off and landed beside me today, would have crushed my gourd.
Aug 29, 2015
Actually the parking area is a medium sized paved area with lines and everything now. Has been for the last several years. (It's a local favorite. We go there all the time.