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This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.
Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.
31 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Lilly Bluff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lilly Bluff:
Rocking Chair 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Tarantella 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Ticks Are For Kids 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Ivy League 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Blade Loafer 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Paraphernalia 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Dinosaur Jr. 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Alien 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 70'
Electric Chair 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Whipper Snapper 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Lounge Lizard 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Heresy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Poison Ivy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Clyde the Mega Dude 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Osiris 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 60'
Egyptian 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 70'
Gangsta 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Yakuza 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 50'
Wheatward Bound 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
La Familia 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
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