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Lilly Bluff

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Alien S 
Aneurism S 
Backer Spit S 
Blade Loafer T,S 
Body Hammer S 
Boogie Man S 
Borderline S 
Clyde the Mega Dude S 
Dinosaur Jr. S 
Dirty Deeds S 
Done Dirt Cheep S 
Drive By S 
Egyptian S 
Electric Chair S 
Electric Sky S 
Gangsta S 
Heresy S 
Hieroglyphics S 
Ivy League S 
Krieg's Crack S 
La Familia S 
Lounge Lizard S 
Mixed Nuts T,S 
Motion Sickness S 
NC Sport Climber T 
Neanderthal T 
Ode to the Quitter S 
Osiris S 
Osirus S 
Paraphernalia S 
Piggy T 
Poison Ivy S 
Rebel Flag T 
Rocking Chair T,S 
Rolling Coal T 
Tarantella S 
Temporary Insanity S 
Ticks Are For Kids S 
Unga Bunga T 
Wheatward Bound S 
Whipper Snapper S 
Y'all Ain't From 'Round Here T 
Yakuza S 

Lilly Bluff Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.1022, -84.7184 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,604
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Carver on Nov 19, 2007
Forecast:
Overnight

71°
Tuesday

90° | 73°
Wednesday

91° | 73°
Thursday

86° | 70°
Friday

84° | 68°
Saturday

85° | 68°
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Description 

This a smaller (Obed Standards), shady crag. However, there is a fine collection of routes, and the walk is no more than 5 minutes. Because of the shade, this is one of the more popular places to climb during the summer.

Getting There 

Drive across the Lilly Bridge and park in a small gravel parking lot. Look for an obvious trail that heads into the woods near the bridge. Follow this trail, which intersects the cliff line at a tall, prominent wall. Head right for Lilly Bluff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.0 miles from here

43 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',13],['5.11',16],['5.12',11],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lilly Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lilly Bluff:
Rocking Chair   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Ticks Are For Kids   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Tarantella   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Blade Loafer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Paraphernalia   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Ivy League   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Dinosaur Jr.   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Alien   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Whipper Snapper   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Poison Ivy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Lounge Lizard   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Clyde the Mega Dude   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Osirus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Heresy   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   
Osiris   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   
Egyptian   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Gangsta   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Wheatward Bound   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Yakuza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
La Familia   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lilly Bluff

Featured Route For Lilly Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber headed for rest stop #2 on Tarantella (5.1...

Tarantella 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff
Climb the left face of the corner (sometimes wet) and clip the first bolt while hanging from a ledge. Clamber up onto the ledge for a nice rest, and clip the second bolt. Now reach down and unclip the first bolt to avoid rope drag later down the road. Wander up the right face of the corner, past another lovely rest ledge on the arete, to anchors near the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

Comments on Lilly Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Thilking
From: Lynchburg, VA
Feb 4, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 
Very Icy muddy quagmire today. Was only able to boulder up to second bolt of rocking chair before rock got too wet. Recommend a helmet when checking out routes, monster chunk of ice sheared off and landed beside me today, would have crushed my gourd.
By kwvaughn
Aug 29, 2015
Actually the parking area is a medium sized paved area with lines and everything now. Has been for the last several years. (It's a local favorite. We go there all the time.

KV

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