|667 page views|
This is a great newer 'variation' that combines the best parts of two older routes, an obscure .12b called Just Say No^2 and the more popular With Apologies to Walter B. Bad rock at the start should be no deterrent. Climb past a bolt to a stance. With difficulty, climb past three more bolts and some thin gear to another stance. Instead of continuing straight up the poorly bolted arete of Just Say No^2, make a bizarre, engaging series of movements to the right around the arete past a bolt to join Walter B for its awesome .10d finger crack.
Past Thin Fingers and Tatoosh the trail goes uphill towards the quarry (unfortunately the nice trail in this section was obliterated by rockfall). This climb is found on the left and starts with some jumbled scrambling up blocks that soon gives way to steep face climbing in a shallow corner. Fixed lowering hardware on top.
Four or five bolts, thin gear for the top of the initial corner feature, then finger to hand sized pieces for the upper crack (doubles useful in the .5 to 1 Camalot range).
Oct 9, 2012
This is a much better entrance to Apologies. Thanks Chris.
From: Everett WA
Jan 5, 2013
Great climb that is quick to dry out after the rains