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Routes in The Wailing Wall
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El Supremo Grande S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fit to be Tied S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Like Bookends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seminar, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Stewart Green, Mike Heinrichs and Brian Shelton September 04 |
| Page Views: | 1,546 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Olszewski on Mar 17, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Stewart M. Green: as of the July Fourth weekend, Red Rock Canyon Open Space has been reopened for climbing.
Red Rock Canyon Open Space is currently CLOSED to all access due to flood damage.
Red Rock Canyon Open Space is currently CLOSED to all access due to flood damage.
Description
The crux on Like Bookends is the start of the route. Work up to the first bolt on smears and tiny edges and be sure to have a good spotter, that first bolt is about 15 up. Continue up on small holds and sustained climbing, past a couple large vertical flakes. Passing the fourth bolt the terrain is much lower angle, but still fairly dicey, as the holds are pretty much non-existent and it will be quite slick if theres a lot of dust on the route. Above, move into the large flakes on steep ground. Work up the left side to the anchors. Avoid going right below the anchor; that undercling feels real nice but the huge flake is very hollow and the holds run out. Laying back that flake might just send 50 pounds or more of rock flying toward your belayer. Despite the occasional loose flake, this is a fantastic route and more difficult than any .10a in the northern part of the canyon, due to its sustained nature. Rappel to descend.
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