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Like a Wonk 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Hand, Kent Lugbill & Dan Brockway, 4/10/2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,277
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Apr 17, 2007
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Left variation. Photo by Lenny Miller.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


Two new first-pitch variations added 4/18/2007.

Pitch 1a: Begin just left of Botonga, solo up easy rock and climb past 3 bolts (5.9) in a dihedral to a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 1b: Climb the line just left of pitch 1a following 3 bolts (5.9) to a new 2-bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. You may need to temporarily clip the anchor to the right to get to the upper anchor.

These two separate new anchors eliminate the rope shredding problem.

Pitch 2: Move right past the anchor for Botonga and wonk your way straight up placing the gear until the bolts are reached. The crux (5.8) is the short traverse right at the 2nd bolt.


Begins just left of Botonga.


0.75 Camalot, red, yellow, green Aliens.
2-bolt anchors atop each pitch.

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Right variation.
Right variation.
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By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Oct 2, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

With belly to the bolts, the left hand variation felt fairly hard (.10c?) to me; I'm 5'8" and I hung, [but avoided the crack to the left]. I was expecting easier....

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jan 13, 2010

I removed a loose flake (18 inch diameter) from the left variation today. It can be seen in the picture next to the climbers left foot. It left a big hold and the move at the 2nd bolt is easier now. I was actually shocked how hollow it sounded. The FA party was remiss in not cleaning it. OH WAIT! That's me! Sorry. I also put in separate anchors for the two variations. This eliminates the rope shredding problem.