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Lightweight belay jackets (100g PrimaLoft One)
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By Justin Hebert
From Las Cruces, NM
Dec 29, 2012
Summit of Organ Needle

Looking for some suggestions on a "lightweight" belay jacket that features Primaloft One insulation, helmet compatible hood. I don't ice climb (yet) so I don't need anything too burly.

Suggestions?


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By alpinejason
From Eau Claire
Dec 30, 2012

Not helmet compatible but really nice.

Ran Xenon.

Good color selection. 12 oz. Durable enough especially if you're not ice climbing with sharp things. Wish it had a two way zipper and was helmet compatible but nice enough that I don't care.


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By Dane
Dec 30, 2012
Cham '11

RAB Xenon is a 60g Primaloft 1 jacket.

Here is a short list of a few. Add the Eddie Bauer Ignitor to that list as a 100g PL1 jacket with a good helmet hood.

cascadeclimbers.com/synthetic-insulated-jacket-layering-revi>>>


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By Jim R
From Vegas!
Dec 30, 2012

I've been looking at the MEC Northern Lite Ultra Jacket for the same role.

Dane, any thoughts on how it compares to the others listed in your review?


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By Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Dec 30, 2012
Summit of Rainier.

I think it's heavier than what you list, but I've been very happy with the outdoor research chaos jacket. Double zipper, helmet compatible hood, plenty of pockets and has wind stopper.


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By Andrew Blease
From 4runner, parking lot, USA
Dec 30, 2012

+1 for the EB First Ascent Ignitor jacket. I've been super happy with it and warm even when wet. Keep an eye out for funny colors and sales. I got mine for $60 with tax. Best money I've every spent on a jacket.


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By Paul-B
Dec 30, 2012
Flakes of Wrath

I really like my North Face redpoint optimus. 100 grams of Primaloft One. Helmet compatible hood, hood is very easy to use, always comfortable for me over a helmet. Zip high over face like a balaclava, but stretchy enough to pull under your chin if you want your face free.


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By Justin Hebert
From Las Cruces, NM
Dec 30, 2012
Summit of Organ Needle

Good replies everyone(especially Dane)! Thank you all for your input and further questions.

With the info provided I'm armed with some good first hand knowledge and that'll give me something to mull over while I define what exactly my needs/wants are.


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By Stephan Doyle
Jan 1, 2013

TNF redpoint is heavy.

FA Igniter is a nice piece. Good detailing and price.

Sportiva Pegasus is a big sleeperů Haven't used mine enough to say it's better than most others, but so far I've been impressed with the detailing. 100g body, 60g head and arms. Five pockets. Killer hood and cuffs.

Atom SV won't let you down if you're willing to pony up the price. A couple nice Arc'Teryx featurettes on this one.


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By Justin Hebert
From Las Cruces, NM
Jan 1, 2013
Summit of Organ Needle

Stephan Doyle wrote:
TNF redpoint is heavy. FA Igniter is a nice piece. Good detailing and price. Sportiva Pegasus is a big sleeperů Haven't used mine enough to say it's better than most others, but so far I've been impressed with the detailing. 100g body, 60g head and arms. Five pockets. Killer hood and cuffs. Atom SV won't let you down if you're willing to pony up the price. A couple nice Arc'Teryx featurettes on this one.


I have a problem with Arc'teryx products.. Keeping them out of my closet :)

The TNF redpoint is on sale pretty cheap at REI at the moment, which made it tempting, but I'm looking at the Patagonia NanoPuff Hoody at the moment. I think the loose fit of this piece might just work out in my favor for my particuluar situation. I've been pleased with my non hooded Nano..

After reading Dane's review and likings I've been heavily eyeing the Atom SV, but it's hard to fork out the coin when I can find NanoPuff Hoodies for ~$160 new and it's pretty rare to find a Atom SV on sale.


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By Stephan Doyle
Jan 2, 2013

Nano Puff is only 60g insulation.

REI had Micro Puff Hoodies on sale. Might be off their website, but $131 and a better jacket than the north face one (use the 8oz difference to take an extra pair of gloves, a baselayer, or a cap4 hoody - you'll be warmer that way, too).


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By Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Jan 2, 2013
Dreamweaver

Justin Hebert wrote:
I have a problem with Arc'teryx products.. ~$160 new and it's pretty rare to find a Atom SV on sale.


The SV is just short of a full on winter belay parka. I'm not sure it would fit your desires. The Atom LT just might though and is a superb jacket with a more digestible price tag.

I held a grudge against Arc'teryx for a very long time due to a customer service snafu I had with them over a Bora 80 I bought in 2002. However, I've recently acquired a few of their pieces and gloves and have a hard time criticizing their quality and innovative detailing. Overall though, the jackets do tend to be cut short (for me).


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By Groch
Jan 2, 2013

www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/ClearanceItems/MensClothing/PRD~5025->>>

The MEC Uplink Hoodie has eveythin that you're looking for, except that the insulation is only 60g/sq. meter. They are on clearance right now for $115.


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By Dane
Jan 2, 2013
Cham '11

I like lwt gear but would never, ever condisider a 60g jacket a "belay" anything unless the temps are way up and the ice long gone. Nice sweater to climb in cold wether though if it is ventilated like the Atom lt. is

Trust me the Atom SV is a full on winter belay jacket. Two of us used them in the Alps mid winter to great effect above 12K. on the north side of things.


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By Justin Hebert
From Las Cruces, NM
Jan 2, 2013
Summit of Organ Needle

Dane wrote:
I like lwt gear but would never, ever condisider a 60g jacket a "belay" anything unless the temps are way up and the ice long gone. Nice sweater to climb in cold wether though if it is ventilated like the Atom lt. is Trust me the Atom SV is a full on winter belay jacket. Two of us used them in the Alps mid winter to great effect above 12K. on the north side of things.


I suppose I could have clarified my intended useage a little better. :) I live in the South West. I don't own crampons. :)

I'm looking for something to throw over my Patagonia Knifeblade when I'm playing on the rock in less than ideal conditions (think 35-45deg F) with stout winds. I'm thinking a 60g "sweater" should suffice.

You (and others) are playing in much colder conditions than I am currently.


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By Dane
Jan 3, 2013
Cham '11

Justin Hebert wrote:
I live in the South West. I'm looking for something to throw over my Patagonia Knifeblade when I'm playing on the rock in less than ideal conditions (think 35-45deg F) with stout winds.


60g will work then for what you want but not a Atom LT imo. The Atom LT has VERY breathable panels on the sides and is of questionable use in any sort of wind. Decent if you put something over it but a wind shirt/knifeblade under it isn't very effective imo. You'll likely negate the majority of the 60g insulation in the wind. A RAB Xenon or a Nano puff would work much better in that situation. I've used a Nano puff pull over in similar conditions to much better effect. More recently the Xenon. Any of the 60g jackets without side vents will work much better than the vented versions in any sort of windy conditions. You'd be better off/warmer climbing in a Eddie Bauer Accelerant as the base garment and then adding the Knifblade in the wind.


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By Avery S
Jan 20, 2013

Jim R wrote:
I've been looking at the MEC Northern Lite Ultra Jacket for the same role. Dane, any thoughts on how it compares to the others listed in your review?


The MEC Jacket is great. Very similar to the DAS (less insulation in hood, sleeves, and front) and about 3 oz lighter. I had trouble finding info on it before I bought mine, so I'd be happy to answer questions.


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By outdoorcrazy
From Reno, Nv
Jan 21, 2013

Owning both the Arc'teryx atom SV, and Atom Lt as well as the Patagonia nano puff, I think you would be most happy with the Atom SV for your described use. The LT is great as a layering piece, or as a stand along in slightly chilly conditions but it only takes a slight breeze and the panels on the side almost negate the warmth that it provides. The nano is great, but I honestly I don't think it would add that much warmth as an over the top of a shell jacket. The SV however is one of the most impressive jackets I have ever worn, and I own quite a few. I feel that it has the best temperature range of any insulated jacket I have tried. As another poster said it is warm enough to be used in winter conditions, but also doesn't seem to get as hot as I would expect as the temperatures rise. That being said, if you plan to be pretty active while wearing it you will get too hot in it and in which case I would lean towards the LT.


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By Jim R
From Vegas!
Jan 21, 2013

Avery S wrote:
The MEC Jacket is great. Very similar to the DAS (less insulation in hood, sleeves, and front) and about 3 oz lighter. I had trouble finding info on it before I bought mine, so I'd be happy to answer questions.


Thanks Avery, but I picked one up (along with the Northern Light pants). My first impression is that they are well built and fit appropriately for their purpose. Good quality for the price. Just need to find conditions cold enough to wring them out...


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By Paul-B
Jan 22, 2013
Flakes of Wrath

Stephan Doyle wrote:
TNF redpoint is heavy.



I was surprised when I looked at the specs and noticed the weight difference. I am not sure where this weight is coming from, doesn't seem like there are frivolous pockets, etc. Fabric is thin and light. I am guessing just a bulkier cut? If so, I think I am happy it is so. Normally I like very athletically cut jackets, but I solely used the Redpoint as a belay jacket, usually tossing it over my baselayer/midlayer/shell/helmet. I appreciate the way it covers all this with out being restrictive, the helmet compatible hood is the least restrictive I've used. Its definitely heavier than the others, but I have really been happy with it.


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By jselwyn
From Grand Junction, CO
Jan 22, 2013

I've got a med redpoint and on a postal scale it is 20.6oz. Quite a bit lighter than what they claim on their website. I'm pretty happy with it, however the zipper can be a major pain.


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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 22, 2013
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.

The Rab Photon is heavier than the Xenon, 100g Primaloft, I think. Nice jacket. I have worn mine on Mt. Whitney in April and Rainier in August.


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By Christopher G
From New Hartford, NY
Jan 25, 2013
Adirondacks

Has anyone used the new Wild Things Insulight Hoody? Not only can you choose colors, pockets and placement, but you can choose the amount of PrimaLoft filling and whether or not you want PrimaLoft Sport or PrimaLoft One. There's two options of fill weight - 2ounces and 4 ounces. The 4 ounce measures to about 113 grams of PrimaLoft. Just curious if anyone else has noticed this option and if anyone can speak of its use. Thanks!


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