Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Traditional: Mike Argueso & Rick Donnelly Sport: Mike Strassman & Mark Colby Rebolt: Ben Burnham & Vincent Greene |
| Season: | Morning Shade |
| Submitted By: | Hendrixson on Oct 3, 2011 |
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Todd Wolfe (13 years old) leading lights out at 10...
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Description Another engaging, slightly meandering clip-up similar to the nearby routes.
This route has a sordid history. My understanding, which may be wrong, is that this line crosses Mike Argueso's Thing, a bold traditional route climbed prior by Mike Argueso and Rick Donnelly. Mike Strassman and Mark Colby unknowingly bolted over this route to create Lights Out At Ten; Candles Out At Eleven. Rick Donnelly chopped the route. Ben Burnham and Vincent Greene rebolted the route but lowered the anchors. The route may continue on the old bolts past the anchors.
Location This route is between the bolted lines The Grips Of Wrath and In Lightning. It has bolts as opposed to the shuts founds on The Grips of Wrath.
Protection Bolts & Chains
| Comments on Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven |
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By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b
| I think I was told this is a Ben Burnham route, but the bolting style doesn't quite feel the same as the routes to the left. This one feels a little safer, not quite as PG-13 as those. |
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2012
| Updated the route information. Please correct any errors. |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b
| Too bad about the history of obliterating a trad line. Never the less, it is a fun route with a very thin steep slabby crux and my kids quite enjoyed climbing it. |
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