|The Mordor Wall
Memorable. 6 great pitches! Pro on the last pitch is R, but should not be an issue if you're climbing 11.
P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80'
P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'
P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140'
P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right under overlap to right edge and bust a move up (assume harder if you have a smaller ape-index) to a bolt above and a friction move to the belay. 11b - 90'
P5-6 May be combined. Move out right from belay to a bolt and to a devious 5.9 move, trend up and left to another bolt (crux) and climb a finicky friction move to easier climbing and the belay bolts. 5.11b - 50'
P6- Climb out right a bit and up, trending left a bit through some lichen, to the trees! 1 bolt protects the pitch. 5.9 - 60' An alternative at the start of p6 may be to traverse right to escape into an obvious feature.
Look for bolt ladder right of Highway 61. You can see the former tree-climb laying on the ground adjacent to the start.
normal rack up to 3".
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Sep 7, 2010
The best of the "easier", long 5.11's on Cathedral. Tremendous variety and quality of climbing.
FFA surette/cannon '84
FA- webster/ross '76
|By dale polen|
From: arivaca, az
Dec 15, 2011
This ia an awesome route. Great climbing and varied.
Jul 29, 2013
did this over the weekend - parts of it I led with a long branch in my mouth because there were so many thick spider webs and I didn't want to get bitten! it's clean now and it's a great route! dry. get on it.