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Lightning Crack  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,188
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Aug 27, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Lightning Crack

Description 

Nice climbing up an erratic crack with lots of rests and a fine position.

P1 5.7 150 Start up Sam's Swan Song's broken corner but break left after about thirty feet. Follow lightning crack until it ends then look right for a bolted belay.


Location 

Maybe a couple of hundred feet north of Slow and Easy, Left of the Triple S Buttress.


Protection 

Standard Rack, Bolt Anchors, Rap with two ropes.



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By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Sep 26, 2011

I've done this with a double set of BD camelots up to size #2 and a single #3. You'll have to run it out a bit, but the falls are clean.

It also dries quickly, except for the start, which can seep a bit. But even then there are enough dry holds to climb around the wet stuff.

By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Beautiful climbing with good stances. I'd strongly recommend you bring a #4 Camalot (it would take multiples, but one is sufficient if you walk it up between non-#4 pieces).

By Paul LaFontaine
Jul 13, 2013

Did this route today. Great route. Route finding not an issue. I'm a cautious, new 5.7 leader. I brought a #4 Camalot. Could've used another one but with some large hexes and other gear sows up well. Two pins on the route as well which were as confidence inspiring as old pins on Cannon can be but were easy to back up.

Well worth the hike up. This, combined with first pitch of VMC, good 5.7 routes to get on if W-G ridge crowded.