Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
2. Duet Area etc
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Add Libs 
All Day Sucker 
British Were Coming, The 
Condemned Man 
Continuation of Rock Candy 
Duet Direct 
Fall from Grace  
Jawbreaker (not completely done)  
Light Brigade, The 
Lightning Crack  
Raven Crack 
Rock Candy 
Sam's Ghost 
Sam's Swan Song 
Shadey Grove (unfinished) 
Sinister Satisfaction  
Slow and Easy 
Sticky Fingers 
White and Young 

Lightning Crack  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type: Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,174
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Aug 27, 2011
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Lightning Crack

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


Nice climbing up an erratic crack with lots of rests and a fine position.

P1 5.7 150 Start up Sam's Swan Song's broken corner but break left after about thirty feet. Follow lightning crack until it ends then look right for a bolted belay.


Maybe a couple of hundred feet north of Slow and Easy, Left of the Triple S Buttress.


Standard Rack, Bolt Anchors, Rap with two ropes.

Photos of Lightning Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Comments on Lightning Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Sep 26, 2011

I've done this with a double set of BD camelots up to size #2 and a single #3. You'll have to run it out a bit, but the falls are clean.

It also dries quickly, except for the start, which can seep a bit. But even then there are enough dry holds to climb around the wet stuff.

By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Beautiful climbing with good stances. I'd strongly recommend you bring a #4 Camalot (it would take multiples, but one is sufficient if you walk it up between non-#4 pieces).

By Paul LaFontaine
Jul 13, 2013

Did this route today. Great route. Route finding not an issue. I'm a cautious, new 5.7 leader. I brought a #4 Camalot. Could've used another one but with some large hexes and other gear sows up well. Two pins on the route as well which were as confidence inspiring as old pins on Cannon can be but were easy to back up.

Well worth the hike up. This, combined with first pitch of VMC, good 5.7 routes to get on if W-G ridge crowded.