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Mount San Antonio (Mt. Baldy)
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Lightning Couloir I AI1 260M 

AI1

   
Type:  Ice, 850'
Original: AI1 Mod. Snow [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 2,292
Submitted By: Johnny K. on Jan 3, 2011  with updates from Dave Alden

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Lightning Couloir

Description 

There is a mixed band of terrain between the two avenues of approach. The left of the two couloirs (just to the left of Lightning Couloir) is a bit safer to descend than Lightning, and it broadens out sooner, opening up to Big Butch Wash.

Location 

Head up to Mt.Baldy village towards Manker flats where the road splits.Big butch wash off is to the right.Park in the Manker Flats area.Hike up to Big Butch towards the couloirs.When you come to the junction with the small waterfall on the left side, simply head up the obvious couloir system to the right in front of you.

Protection 

Standard light mountaineering rack
Skis for a quick descent


Photos of Lightning Couloir I AI1 260M Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lightning Couloir Photo By Ryan Dacey
Lightning Couloir Photo By Ryan Dacey
Rock Climbing Photo: Lightning Couloir Photo By Ryan Dacey
BETA PHOTO: Lightning Couloir Photo By Ryan Dacey
Rock Climbing Photo: Result of rockfall. Left a cool scar.
Result of rockfall. Left a cool scar.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the top: Mt San Antonio and the Bald...
The view from the top: Mt San Antonio and the Bald...
Rock Climbing Photo: From just above the small ice fall, pretty low on ...
From just above the small ice fall, pretty low on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: more rock, less snow
more rock, less snow
Rock Climbing Photo: It got kinda rocky near the top
It got kinda rocky near the top
Rock Climbing Photo: The small ice fall about 100' up the couloir.
The small ice fall about 100' up the couloir.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from a nice ledge about 1/2 way up.
Looking down from a nice ledge about 1/2 way up.
Rock Climbing Photo: About 1/3 of the way up the couloir.
About 1/3 of the way up the couloir.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the route and the small ice falls that ma...
Start of the route and the small ice falls that ma...
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of the route, Where Big Butch Wash meets a lo...
Base of the route, Where Big Butch Wash meets a lo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Safety Dance redirect
Safety Dance redirect
Rock Climbing Photo: Lightning Couloir Top out
Lightning Couloir Top out
Rock Climbing Photo: Baldy bowl shinning in the backround
Baldy bowl shinning in the backround

Comments on Lightning Couloir I AI1 260M Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyler Wick
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 12, 2011
rating: AI1 Mod. Snow X

The place is a bowling alley in march! There were some decent sections of neve and some ice down low, but mostly easy snow. The crux was dodging rocks.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
Jan 10, 2012

Added a new area for The Three T's, could the owner or an admin move this route there? Thanks.
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 14, 2013
rating: AI2 Mod. Snow X

Low snowpack at the top of the route made for a very interesting solo. Lots of exposed ground/rock forced me to frontpoint and even drytool when I was able to find features stable enough to pull on. The lower 3/4 of the route was extremely fun though, good snow until the final 50ft or so. Going to wait for a bit more snow before I attempt to repeat the route. Definitely an "X" safety rating in these conditions, it did look like there were possibilities to protect however in the rock on the sides of the couloir. No rockfall luckily.

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