Lightning Bolt Roof  5.11c/d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet FA:  Jim Orey, 1977 Submitted By:  Aron Quiter on Jul 9, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>> On June 16, 2012, a nest with chicks was noticed on the ledge at the end of the second pitch of Touch and Go. Please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid climbing routes from Touch and Go south to the left side of the Cannibal Gully (such as Inner Recess, Rambo Crack, and Bourbon Street) until the chicks fledge. Fledging can happen early, but typical seasonal closures extend until September 1st or later. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is on the WAY Right side of the black wall, and is a nearly horizontal roof that heads our for about 25 feet.

To access the route, Get over to the right side of the Black Wall, which is easy if you find the tiny hidden path, or really annoying if you don't. Finding the path along the base of the wall is easy, finding the path from the turnout is NOT.

Once you've found the right side of the wall, head up towards the overhang of Lightning Bolt Roof, which you can't miss. This is best accomplished by climbing the ramp to the right (5.6), which accesses the long crack known as Balck September (5.9+) and the sport route Summer Breeze (5.10c), or by walking up the broken 4th class crack from the left.

Lightning Bolt Roof is off-hand offwidth and less then ideal slopers for 20 feet, and then climbing eases at the second horn into a very fun but bizarre chimney.

Protection 

Medium to Large Gear, with an emphasis on gear from 3 - 5".