|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2006
If you go directly up on the route, on the left of the arete and don't go right after the weird little roof, it is darn hard. I can't say just how hard, because I fell off with my feet on a lie-back off of a nub on the arete almost level with my right hand on the flake, while my left hand was vertical upward on a nasty crystal, At least 5.12... I don't know, but darn hard. If you don't try to force the issue and do go right, to the right of the arete, the route is *not* so darn hard. I saw that way and actually avoided that thinking the route should be a lot harder, so I figured the right side to be "off route." I'd be hard pressed to give it 5.11 at all, let alone 5.11b. But that's strange, but cause I am not a good micro-edge climber and I usually find Demallie's routes stiff at the grade. Good god, like "King Of Pain" on Shirt Tail Peak!
Anyway, if you do the route as a single pitch, which is far and away the best way, take a red Camalot for a meter below the pin, clip that, the pin, then go up to the ledge, and skip the anchor. Clip the first bolt with a 1' draw and continue. A bomber #3 Camalot fits right about where you'd want it in a line for the rope, all bolts considered, but in reality it is only about 3 feet above the last bolt and getting to the next bolt is not hard climbing. I placed it to dump it more so than to use it. You don't need it at all.
You will want a 2' sling for that weird bolt placed way out left that could have just as easily not been way over there, then finish on the arete...
A good route if done in a single pitch. Your second has to follow because the anchors are NOT placed for a lower-off. You can't clean on rap if you want to pull your rope in the end.