Besides Ancient Art, Lighthouse Tower has perhaps the coolest summit in the Moab area. Located above the Big Bend recreation area, the tower has a relatively short approach and can easily be done in a couple of hours car to car. A number of excellent routes ascend the tower, each requiring an exciting mantle onto the summit block that must be reversed (there are no anchors on the summit).
Drive about 7 miles east of Moab on the River Road. Look for a small pullout on the left, river side of the road just past a large boulder with lots of calcite on one side. Park here then walk down the road (in the Moab direction) looking for a good trail marked by an obvious metal post. The approach takes about 20 minutes.
Browse More Classics in Lighthouse Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lighthouse Tower:
Lonely Vigil 5.10 Trad, Grade II
Poseidon Adventure 5.10 R Trad, 4 pitches, 310 feet, Grade III
Iron Maiden 5.12- PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For Lighthouse Tower
Iron Maiden 5.12- PG13 UT : Moab Area : ... : Lighthouse Tower
Long considered one of the true desert tower testpieces. A little bit spicy, but well protected for the cruxes. p1 12-. Do a long pitch that runs the whole gamut. This is a cruxy pitch. Climb a chimney and easy corner until it slams shut, requiring some hard (10+/11-) stemming and face climbing with pro at and below your feet. Get to a stance, pass a possible belay on your left and launch into the 12- business by a new bolt. Pass the bolt and then hand traverse right around the arete to a ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT