Lighthouse Tower  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  18,463. Good page?    Administrators:  Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Joe Collins on Apr 11, 2002 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

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Description 

Besides Ancient Art, Lighthouse Tower has perhaps the coolest summit in the Moab area. Located above the Big Bend recreation area, the tower has a relatively short approach and can easily be done in a couple of hours car to car. A number of excellent routes ascend the tower, each requiring an exciting mantle onto the summit block that must be reversed (there are no anchors on the summit).

Getting There 

Drive about 7 miles east of Moab on the River Road. Look for a small pullout on the left, river side of the road just past a large boulder with lots of calcite on one side. Park here then walk down the road (in the Moab direction) looking for a good trail marked by an obvious metal post. The approach takes about 20 minutes.

The Classics

Featured Route For Lighthouse Tower

Iron Maiden 5.12- PG13  UT : Moab Area : ... : Lighthouse Tower

Long considered one of the true desert tower testpieces. A little bit spicy, but well protected for the cruxes. p1 12-. Do a long pitch that runs the whole gamut. This is a cruxy pitch. Climb a chimney and easy corner until it slams shut, requiring some hard (10+/11-) stemming and face climbing with pro at and below your feet. Get to a stance, pass a possible belay on your left and launch into the 12- business by a new bolt. Pass the bolt and then hand traverse right around the arete to a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Lighthouse Tower Slideshow

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Paul Kejla descending after an ascent of Lonely Vi...

Pavel Kejla on the short 5.6 pitch that accesses t...