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The Island
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Black Wall S 
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Bruce's Crack T 
Certain Damage S 
Community Service S 
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Easy Ramp T 
Egyptian S 
Feelin' All Right S 
Free Time S 
Hole A Day S 
Horn of Plenty, The S 
Illegal Dihedral S 
Jesus Loves You S 
Last Freedom S 
Light Tension S 
Pea Green Limosine S 
Redhead S 
Rescue S 
Rub the Nub S 
Search S 
Silent Spaz S 
Spider Pig S 
Spring Cleaning S 
Squintch S 
Value Jet S 
Welcome to Billings S 
Wild Thing S 

Light Tension 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Plummer, 1994
Page Views: 694
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on May 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Rope hanging on Light Tension (right of center).

Description 

Begin by climbing up to a ledge to attain the slabby dihedral. Up the dihedral to attain a downward sloping ledge on the right. Launch up the headwall to the left, following small edges at first then various crack systems. A long pitch that is pumpy towards the end.

Location 

20 feet right of Aah.. Me Wrikey and 40 feet left of Egyptian on the Tunnel Wall

Protection 

10 clips


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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 7, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

good route! the first two clips are a bit spaced with awkward climbing, though a hand sized piece might be useful for the timid getting to the 2nd bolt. the second half makes up for it with awesome pumpy sequences through the headwall. the last move is strenuous if youre pumped and almost took my onsight away.
By Bryant hall
From: Cody, WY
Sep 8, 2013

Probably my favorite route the island. The right hand crimp through the crux at mid route is a great hold. and leads to fun exposure followed by great jug section. The slopper to finish keeps the business going at the end. Great route.