Lifestream 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 230 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, Joyce Rossiter, & Steve Ilg - 1987 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Nov 9, 2003 |
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Chuck's clipping the bolt at the crux. The bottom ...
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The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description - Note that we only did the second pitch after rapping from another climb and traversing across the big ledge system on the lower half of Mickey Mouse Wall*
Lifestream goes up the left side of the arete at the far left of the Mickey Mouse Wall. Climb up past a gear placement and then past [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor (note the anchors do not have lowering rings and could use a pair of quicklinks up there). Two cruxes - one at the first bolt, one at the fifth. Lots of interesting sequences made this climb enjoyable.
Rap with a 60m rope to a grassy ledge ten feet above the main ledge.
The first pitch looks decent but nothing special. The [definite] meat of the route is the second pitch.
Protection Second pitch is [8] bolts to a two-bolt anchor, bring a [#2 Friend] to protect the run to the first bolt. First pitch supposedly takes gear to one inch [and has 1 bolt].
Starting the crux moves. If you can reach a couple...
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Doing the R version at what seemed to be the crux....
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At the 5th bolt...which happens to be the lone bol...
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From the tree belay on P1, looking up at the aesth...
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2004
| First pitch is a boulder problem and is OK. Rossiter points out a third pitch as well. Directly above the 2nd pitch anchor he claims that the arete is 10-. Too bad it was totally unproteced mossy and contrived. Third pitch not worth doing. |
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2004
| If you're feeling weak, volunteer to lead the first pitch! IMHO, this is one of the easiest 10d's around. The crux on p2 is much harder, and I injured my shoulder struggling from an iron cross position. Still a fun and worthwhile route! |
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2004
| I can't remember if it was this climb or "Vergin' on Perversion" that I messed my shoulder up on. Anyway, if you find yourself in a strenuous iron cross on either of these, you are probably not doing it the right (easiest) way. |
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 7, 2005
| This 2nd pitch is a real gem! Thanks, Richard, Joyce, & Steve! Just enough spice. Bring your tight slippers/face climbing shoes, though. P1 isn't the heart of the climb, although a reach L or crossing over with the R to the rail above the bolt helps. For P2, you can belay from the tree at the ledge & a #2 Friend fits before the 1st bolt. Didn't find any other natural pro. You can pull the crux at the 2nd bolt either L or precariously on the arete to the R. Interesting sequences at each bolt, high steps, arete slapping, decent rests, a thumb mantle & even a heel hook. Another amazing find! Also, seem to have left a #4 Camalot near the base here :( |
By nolteboy
Oct 24, 2005
| Second pitch has fantastic rock and super cool moves. Very well bolted- [tough] parts are well protected, easier sections are a bit more run out. |
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