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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,056
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 14, 2007
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Where Life and Rite to Life used to be. November 2...


Hand to fist crack, a little crumbly.


On the yellow and white horizontally striped wall to the right of Bellyfull 200yds. The two routes in the same alcove still have shit anchors.

If you read your guidebook for "Life" you will get to this route. Life is no longer there, it fell down. What remains is a surprisingly good hand to fist crack.


In Oct 06' I pulled the anchor (4"x1/2" rawl, hanger stamped "Comp Wall") out by hand. The new FA (I'm assuming "life had different anchors that fell off with it, these new bad anchors were placed on the freshly exposed rock) had drilled very poorly on softer than average rock. Since that time people have been rapping off my cam and leaving a note that you'll die if you climb this. I put in a 2 bolt anchor with a little glue in March 07. Because of the softness, I don't know how long the anchor will hold up. The route takes hand to fist size cams.

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By chris Kalous
Nov 23, 2009

Ahhh, mystery solved.

By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2010

RIP Life... Glad you didn't take me with you!