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Pluton Playground 
Preteen Sex 
Sexual Dysfunction 
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Too Much Testosterone 

Life Without Sex 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Boyle '88
Page Views: 2,205
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Aug 29, 2006
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Britta grabbin' a lap on Life Without Sex

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This route has an interesting bulge right at the first clip. The next 3 bolts or so cover easy ground to a final steep juggy wall.


This route is the line of bolts just left of Another Jay Goodwin Route.


7 bolts, give or take. Fixed anchors at the top.

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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Not sure why the guidebook describes it as a line of minimal interest. Maybe the low angle easy slab that makes the second third of the route and breaks the continuity? Either way, the lower bulge is funky and powerful and the upper slab is thin and techy with a friction finish. The homemade hanger on the 3rd bolt is worth a look...

By Jesse James
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Definitely some confusion in the guidebook. The route description for Sex, drugs, and Rock & Roll sounds much more suitable: "Bolts. Finishes up steep patina face."

The book says that these two bolted lines are located between the 5.8 on the left, and the 10c on the right, but I could only spot one line of bolts. I assumed that this route was "Sex, drugs, and rock & roll", and that "life without sex" was a mistake in the guidebook.